
mmm 




ACTICAL: 



^•DRESSMAKM 




SARA.-MAy-ALLIN( 




Class TT 5\5 
Book JiA 



Copyright N°. 



COPYRIGHT DEPOSIT. 



PRACTICAL SEWING AND 
DRESSMAKING 



Practical 
Sewing and Dressmaking 



BY 

SARA MAY ALLINGTON 

ILLUSTRATED BY 

ELIZABETH CLEVES BANKS 




BOSTON 

DANA ESTES & COMPANY 

PUBLISHERS 






Copyright, 1913 
By Dana Estes & Company. 

All rights reserved 



THE COLONIAL PKESS 
C. H. SIMONDS & CO., BOSTON, U. S. A. 



r, s* A 8" 



ire 

©CI.A351233 



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CONTENTS 



PAGE 

Introduction v 

LESSON i. 

Stitches used in Sewing and Dressmaking n 

Basting n 

Even Basting n 

Uneven Basting n 

Slanting or Padding Stitch ir 

Running Stitch . n 

Blind Stitch 13 

Back Stitch ', . . . 13 

Overcasting 13 

Overhanding 13 

Hemming 13 

Cat - stitching 15 

French Knots 15 

Buttonholes 15 

To Work Buttonholes on Lace 17 

Eyelets 17 

Loops 17 

Finishing Seams 17 

Double Stitch Seams 17 

French Seam 17 

Strap Seam .17 

Raw Lapped Seam 19 

Cord Seam 19 

Fell Seam 19 

Bias Bands 19 

Milliners' Fold 19 

Girdles ..... 19 

Shirring 19 

Plain Shirring 19 

Tucked Shirring 21 

LESSON 2. 

Utensils needed for Sewing and Dressmaking .... 23 
How to Make a Papier - mache Bust Form for One's Own Dress- 
making 23 

LESSON 3. 

Planning the Gown 25 

LESSON 4. 

The Chart with which the Drafting is Done 29 

LESSON 5. 

How to Take Measures 32 

1. Waist Measure 34 

2. Bust Measure . . 34 



CONTENTS 

PAGE 

3. Neck Measure 34 

4. Armhole Measure . . . 34 

5. Under Arm Measure -35 

6. Upper Front Measure 35 

7. Back Length Measure 35 

8. Back Width Measure . . .35 

9. Front Length Measure 36 

10. Arm Length Measure .36 

11. Elbow Measure 36 

12. Inside Arm Measure from Armhole to Bend of Arm . 36 

13. Hand Measure 36 

14. Front Length of Skirt 36 

15. Side Length of Skirt 36 

16. Back Length of Skirt 36 

17. Take Hip Measure 38 

LESSON 6. 

Drafting the Shirt - waist . . . 39 

LESSON 7. 

Drafting the Shirt-waist Sleeve . 43 

LESSON 8. 

Drafting the Blouse - waist .47 

LESSON 9. 

How to Cut the Sailor Collar, or any Large Collar . . 49 

LESSON 10. 

How to Draft the Kimono Waist . 51 

LESSON 11. 

The Making and Finishing of the Shirt-waist .... 53 

LESSON 12. 

Drafting the Tight Waist with Back Forms . . . . . 59 

LESSON 13. 

Drafting the Waist without Back Forms 65 

LESSON 14. 

Drafting the Waist with French Forms . . . . 71 

LESSON 15. 

How to Cut, Fit, and Make the Waist 77 

LESSON 16. 

Drafting the Coat or Lining Sleeve . . . . . . .85 

LESSON 17. 

The One - piece Tight Sleeve 89 

LESSON 18. 

The Flowing Sleeve . 91 

LESSON 19. 

Drafting the Sleeve with the Tight Elbow and Large Top . 93 

LESSON 20. 

Drafting the Leg o' Mutton Sleeve 97 



CONTENTS 

PAQB 

LESSON 21. 

How to Cut, Make, and Finish the Sleeve ior 

To Make the Mousquetaire Sleeve 102 

LESSON 22. 

Drafting the Circular Skirt 105 

LESSON 23. 

Drafting the Three - gored Circular Skirt 109 

LESSON 24. 

Drafting the Seven - gored Skirt .113 

LESSON 25. 

Drafting the Nine - gored Skirt . . . . . . . .117 

LESSON 26. 

Drafting the Fifteen - gored Skirt 121 

LESSON 27. 

The Full Plaited Skirt, made from the Fifteen - gored Draft 125 

LESSON 28. 

To Cut, Make, and Finish the Drop Skirt and Outside Skirt . 129 
The Outside Skirt 131 

LESSON 29. 

Women's Muslin Underwear — Petticoats 135 

The Petticoat with a Yoke 136 

LESSON 30. 

The Night - gown . . . 139 

LESSON 31. 

The Chemise .141 

The Chemise without Gathers . . . . . . .143 

LESSON 32. 

Women's Corset Covers ... 145 

Corset Cover Fulled at Neck and Waist Line . . . .145 

LESSON 33. 

Seamless Corset Cover made from the Shirt - waist Draft . . 149 

LESSON 34. 

Women's Circular Drawers 151 

To Make the Different Sizes 153 

How to Cut, Make, and Finish the Circular Drawers . .153 

LESSON 35. 

Drafting the Princess Gown 157 

LESSON 36. 

Drafting the Single - breasted, Tight - fitting Tailored Coat . 163 

To Form Skirt of Coat 166 

To Draft the Collar 169 

LESSON 37. 

Loose - fitting, Unlined Coat 171 



CONTENTS 

PAGE 

LESSON 38. 

The Slightly Fitted Coat . 175 

To Draft the Collar 178 

LESSON 39. 

How to Make and Finish the Tailored Coat . . . . .181 

LESSON 40. 

The Child's Draft 191 

LESSON 41. 

Child's Sleeve Draft . 195: 

LESSON .42. 

Child's Coat Sleeve 199 

LESSON 43- 

Child's Rompers . 203 

LESSON 44- 

How to Cut, and Finish the Rompers . 207 

To Draft the Different Sizes 209 

LESSON 45. 

Boy's Russian Blouse Suit . . . 21 r 

The Blouse 211 

The Knickerbockers 213 

LESSON 46. 

How to Make a Boy's Russian Blouse, and Knickerbockers . 219 

LESSON 47. 

Child's Pajama Suit . 223 

LESSON 48. 

Child's Drawers 225 

LESSON 49- 

How to Make Little Girls' Clothing . 229 

Child's Blouse Waist 231 

Little Girls' Underclothing 231 

Little GrRL's Skirt 231 

Child's Drawers 231 

Child's Night-gown 223 

LESSON 50. 

Infant's First Outfit 235 

The Pinning Blanket 235 

For the Skirt 235 

The Waist 236 

The Infant's Skirt . . .237 

Infant's Slip or Night-gown 239 

How to Make the Slip or Night-gown 243 

For the Infant's Dress 244 

LESSON 51. 

How to Make Use of Your Knowledge 245 



INTRODUCTION 

Every woman, no matter how she may be situated at the 
present time, should have at her command some knowledge 
which, if circumstances demand it suddenly, would bring her in 
a good income. 

There is no business in the world, for which women are fitted, 
which brings in a greater income for so little expenditure of 
capital and time as dressmaking. 

There is no woman who will not wish some time in her life 
that she knew something of this art. If she has children she 
will wish to make many things for them. If she is not a woman 
of wealth, she can dress herself for less than half what it will 
cost her to hire, if she can make her own clothing. Even 
should she be able to hire her work done, if she understands the 
work herself, how much easier it is for her to be suited with the 
work of others. There are none so hard to please as those who 
do not know how a thing should be done. 

Oftentimes a financial crisis comes suddenly into one's life, 
when there is no time to wait for positions and hardly time to 
think what to do. With the knowledge of sewing and dress- 
making, one can turn to it and earn a good income, at almost a 
moment's notice. 

Almost every day we hear of women who are thrown out into 
the world to earn their own living. With the thorough knowledge 
of sewing and dressmaking we have tried to give in these pages, 
she can make a success wherever she may wish to put her knowl- 
edge to the test. 

In almost any line of work the competition is so great that 
it is difficult to find a position, and in almost every line the woman 
is forced to work in competition with men, under the nervous 



INTRODUCTION 

strain of business methods and at much smaller pay than that 
of the man working beside her. This is not so with sewing and 
dressmaking. The field is hers, and it is so large that there is 
still room for many more workers. 

We have tried to give in this course a method so simple and a 
course so thorough and broad that it will meet the needs of all 
women, no matter for what purpose they may wish to use their 
knowledge. 



PRACTICAL SEWING AND 
DRESSMAKING 

LESSON I 

STITCHES USED IN DRESSMAKING AND SEWING 

Before taking up the actual making of the gown, we will 
learn the different stitches and utensils which are necessary for 
dressmaking and sewing. 

Basting. — For basting use a good quality basting thread. No* 
60 is preferable for all uses except very heavy wool goods, then 
it is best to use 40 or 50. For silk or velvet a fine thread should 
be used so that it will not mark the goods. In pulling out bastings 
never try to pull the entire length of the thread. Cut it every few 
stitches or you will pull the thread in the goods and ruin it. 

Even Basting is where the stitch is the same length on both 
sides. This is used for basting up seams. 

Uneven Basting is where the upper stitch is long and the under 
one short. It is used for marking seams, basting in hems, etc. 

Slanting or Padding Stitch is used for fastening in canvas or 
padding in coats. 

Running Stitch is where small stitches are taken evenly. This 
is used for joining pieces of materials, tucks, gathers, and sewing 
on braid or trimming. The work should be held evenly together 
with the left hand, while the needle is held in the right and pushed 
back and forth through the material, making as many stitches on 
the needle as possible before pulling it through. You should 
practice this stitch until you can take small even stitches with- 
out looking at the work. 




BasTm* 




Uneven BasTing 



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Running StItc^ 




Even Basting 




Padding STiYch 




Bh'nd ST.'Tcli 



PRACTICAL SEWING AND DRESSMAKING 13 

Blind Stitch. — This is used to fasten on trimming or bias 
bands where the stitch must not show on the right side. Run 
the needle between the foundation goods and the trimming 
with a running stitch. Take the stitch through the foundation, 
but only through the under side of the trimming or into the 
turned in edge of the bias band. 

Back Stitch. — Make a stitch as in the running stitch. Instead 
of taking the next stitch beyond the first, place the needle 
way back in the next stitch and take one twice as long. Take 
each one way back to the one preceding it. This stitch is used 
to take the place of machine sewing. It is much stronger than 
the running stitch. When finished it should resemble machine 
stitching. 

Overcasting is a slanting stitch taken over and over the raw 
edge of the goods. This is used on seams or wherever there 
is a raw edge exposed, to keep it from raveling. The work is 
done from right to left. 

Overhanding. — The two selvages of goods are held evenly 
together and are sewed over and over together with very small 
slanting stitches. Where two raw edges are to be sewed to- 
gether, the raw edges should be turned down a small seam and 
the edges thus formed held together the same as if they were 
selvages. The stitches should be very small and even. The 
work is done from right to left. 

Hemming. — The hem is used to finish the edge and is turned 
down twice. The first turn is always as narrow as possible, and 
the second whatever width the hem is to be when finished. If 
the hem is to be put in on the machine it can be done with the 
foot attachment, unless too wide, but if it is to be hand work, it 
must always be basted. Take the stitch first in the cloth, then 
in the edge of the hem, and so on, making the stitches slanting 
and as small as possible. The stitch which is taken in the cloth 
should only take up one or two threads, so that it will not show 
on the right side. On skirts where the hem is too full to turn up, 
a piece of the goods cut just the same curve of the skirt and the 




Back STiTch 




Over casTmo Over Handing 




CaT ST»Tchjnc 



PRACTICAL SEWING AND DRESSMAKING i$ 

same way of the cloth is sewed to the bottom of the skirt, hav- 
ing the facing the width the hem is to be and on the right side 
of the skirt. Stitch and turn on the wrong side and fasten in 
place. 

Cat-stitching. — This is used where the goods is too heavy to 
turn in twice. Turn the hem up the desired width without 
having turned in the edge. Hold the work so that the hem 
will run away from you. Take a stitch first in the hem and then 
in the goods, in the hem again and again in the goods, holding 
the point of the needle towards you and making the stitches 
cross each other so that they resemble a rail fence. 

French Knots. — These are little knots used for decorative 
purposes. Put the needle up through the goods from the wrong 
side. Before pulling it through the goods, wind the thread 
about it three or four times. Hold the thread down to the needle 
with the left thumb. Put the needle down through as near 
the same place where it came up as possible. Draw down so 
that the knot looks smooth. 

Button-holes. — Button-holes should always be cut very 
evenly. They should be a little longer than the diameter of the 
button. It is a good plan to use button-hole scissors for cutting 
them. More than one thickness of goods should be used and it 
should be firmly basted together. If the material frays easily, 
it is a good plan to stitch around the button-hole before it is cut. 
Button-holes should always be stayed before they are worked. 
One way is to overcast the button-hole. Another is to form 
stitches about the button-hole. Put the needle through from 
the under side, a few threads from the inside end of the button- 
hole. Draw it through. Put it through again at the outside 
end of the button-hole very near the end and so the long stitch 
thus formed will He close along the side of the button-hole. 
Repeat this a second time. This will form a bar of stitches about 
the button-hole. When it is worked, begin at the right end and 
work towards the left. To make the button-hole stitch, put the 
needle up through the goods a few threads from the inner end 




French KnoTs BoTTo.n Hole 




LyeleTS 




Loop 



PRACTICAL SEWING AND DRESSMAKING 17 

of the button-hole. Before pulling it through, take hold of the 
thread near the needle, throw it over the needle and pull through. 
Repeat this for each stitch until you have been around the but- 
ton-hole. The beauty of the button-hole is to have the stitches 
all one length and perfectly even, 

To Work Button-holes on Lace. — Place a piece of thin goods 
underneath where the button-hole is to be worked. Baste into 
place. Cut the button-hole through the lace and goods. After 
it has been worked, cut away the goods so that it will not 
show. 

Eyelets are small round holes punched in the goods with a 
stiletto and worked around over and over. They are used 
largely on shirt-waists, where one wishes to put buttons through 
the goods so they can be easily removed. 

Loops. ^— Take three or four stitches about 34 of an inch long 
on top of each other. Button-hole-stitch them all together, 
covering the entire length. This makes a strong loop which is 
used to take the place of the metal eye where the metal would 
show. 

Finishing Seams. — Seams are finished in various ways. The 
plain seam is simply stitched up and pressed open, after each 
side has been thoroughly overcast. 

Double Stitch Seam is stitched the same as the plain seam. 
Instead of pressing it open, press it all one way and stitch on the 
outside about 3^ of an inch from the first stitching. 

French Seam. — Stitch the seam on the right side. Trim off 
close to the stitching. Turn and stitch on the wrong side. The 
last stitching should come just where the seam in the garment 
should be. 

Strap Seam. — Make a bias band of the goods, turning in each 
edge. The band should be on a true bias. Stitch the seam up on 
the right side, press open and place the bias band over it. Baste 
carefully and stitch very near each edge. This is used on coats, 
coat suits and skirts. It makes a very neat trimming. The bias 
band may be used any desired width. 



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Double STt'ched Seam 





French *Seam 



STrap 5eam 





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Raw Lap 5ean\ 



PRACTICAL SEWING AND DRESSMAKING 19 

Raw Lapped Seam. — Place one edge of the goods flat on the 
other and stitch very near each raw edge. This is good for 
very heavy wool goods. 

Cord Seam. — Cover a small cord with the goods. Turn in 
one side of the seam and baste the cord along the seam. Lay 
flat on the other side of the seam and stitch on the right side 
very near the cord. 

Fell Seam. — Stitch the seam as for a plain seam. Turn both 
edges one way. Trim off the under edge quite narrow. Turn 
in the raw edge of the one not trimmed and stitch down flat, 
stitching as near the edge as possible. 

Bias Bands. — To cut bias bands, fold the corner of the goods 
up so that the two straight edges of the triangle are the same 
length. Make a crease. Measure off the width the bands 
are to be and draw lines with a yardstick and tailors' chalk. 
Mark off as many bands as needed before cutting. Cut on the 
marks carefully, as the least change will throw the bands off 
the true bias. Bias bands of thin material, like silk, should be 
made over crinoline before being used. 

Milliners' Fold. — This is used as a trimming. Make a bias 
band. Turn down one edge about }/£ the width of the band. 
Turn down the other about }4 of an mcn - Turn the narrow edge 
half way up on the broad edge and blind stitch. 

Girdles. — A girdle should always be made on linen canvas. It 
may be cut by a pattern to fit, or cut on a true bias and stretched 
to the figure. The goods may be put on full, plain, or in even 
folds, just as the style demands. The girdle should be boned to 
hold up stiff and smooth. 

Shirring. — Shirring may be done in two ways : 

Plain Shirring. — Run the thread through the goods with 
very small and even stitches. Push the goods up on the thread 
until it is the desired fullness. Be careful not to get it too full 
or it will lose its beauty. Put in as many threads as you wish, 
at an equal distance apart. Put all the threads in before shoving 
the goods up, and keep the fullness the same on each thread. 




WWMMV 



Bias Bands 





MUline-r^ Pol J 



Fell seam 



PRACTICAL SEWING AND DRESSMAKING 21 

Tuck Shirring. — Instead of just running the thread in, as 
in plain shirring, take up a tuck each time about 1-8 of an inch 
wide. Shove up on the thread the same as in plain shirring. 
Make as many tucks as desired, equally distant from each 
other. 



LESSON II 

UTENSILS NEEDED FOR SEWING AND DRESSMAKING 

For your work in sewing and dressmaking you will need a 
large smooth table, large enough to cut a skirt on, a good sew- 
ing-machine, an ironing-board and an ironing-cushion. The 
latter you cannot buy but will have to make for yourself. Cut 
a piece of heavy bed ticking 28 inches long and 18 inches wide. 
Make it into a bag by folding together and stitching along the 
two long sides. Cut old wool and cotton goods into small pieces 
until you have about four pounds. Soak them in water until 
thoroughly wet and then squeeze as much of the water out as 
possible. Fill the bag, making it very solid. Sew up the end 
and soak the whole pillow in water. While it is wet, pound it 
into shape (about like a loaf of bread). When dry cover with 
a piece of white cloth, and it is ready for use in pressing all seams 
of the waist and coat. By using this cushion you will not lose 
the curve of the seams. 

Aside from the utensils mentioned you should have good pins 
and needles, a tracing- wheel and some tailors' chalk (you can 
buy this at a book store), a yardstick, a good pair of shears 
and a pair of button-hole scissors. You should also have a good 
papier-mache bust form. 



HOW TO MAKE A PAPIER-MACHE BUST FORM FOR ONE'S OWN 
DRESSMAKING 



If you wish to do your own dressmaking you should fit up a 
bust form so that it will represent your own form exactly. To 
do this buy a good bust form your own bust measure. Draft 

23 



24 PRACTICAL SEWING AND DRESSMAKING 

a tight waist to your measure and have some one fit it to you 
very tightly, tighter than you could possibly wear it. ^Fit it 
down about the hips about 5 inches below the waist line and be 
sure it is perfect at every point. Use a very heavy lining ma- 
terial. Sew hooks and eyes quite close together down the back. 
Place this lining on your bust form, and by taking it off and on fill 
in all places where it does not fit the form, with layers of cotton 
put on very smoothly. Fill out until the lining is hard to hook 
on. It should be as hard as possible, as you will wish to use it to 
fit your waists on. If it were left soft you might get your waist 
too tight. By placing a petticoat on this form you can hang your 
skirts on this form as well as fit your waists. Of course for the 
skirt the form will have to be on a standard. Any carpenter 
can easily make you one. Have him make a board just the size 
and shape of the bottom of the form. Place four legs on this 
board a little longer than your skirt measure. On the bottom of 
these legs fasten another board, large enough so that the standard 
will not tip over easily. Sew four tape loops to the sides of your 
bust form and put four brass-headed tacks in the edge of the 
top of the standard, leaving them out just enough to slip the 
tape over. This will keep the form from slipping off while 
you are working on it ; at the same time you can remove it from 
the standard whenever you wish. You will find a bust form of 
this kind the most convenient thing you ever possessed. 



LESSON III 



PLANNING THE GOWN 



You have learned the stitches and utensils used in sewing and 
dressmaking. We will now take up the actual work of making 
the gown. 

Dressmaking is divided into four parts: 

i. Planning the gown. 

2. Drafting the gown. 

3. Cutting the gown. 

4. Finishing the gown. 
We will take up the first: 

PLANNING THE GOWN 

The first thing to be thought of in planning the gown is the 
figure of the person for whom the gown is to be made. Is she 
tall and slender or short and stout? Is she light or dark? After 
settling these points, we must decide what sort of a gown would 
be best. For a small person the gown should have long straight 
lines to make her look tall. The tall slender person should have 
broken lines, lines running around, cutting up the length of the 
garment. For a short, stout person the back width should be 
broken so that it will look narrower. 

We must also think of the coloring of the patron. All persons 
cannot wear the same colors. The complexion, color of the hair 
and eyes must be considered. For a fair complexion, lighter 
shades may be used. For the sallow complexion, brown, dark 
blue, olive green and black. We must also consider the time 
when the gown is to be worn. The garment for winter should 
be heavier than for summer. For those who cannot afford a 

25 



26 PRACTICAL SEWING AND DRESSMAKING 

variety, dark colors should be worn. For those who can afford 
it, cream, tan or light grey is good. The garment for winter 
should be more severe in lines than the fluffy thin garment for 
summer wear. 

We must also know for what occasion the dress is to be worn. 
Whether for a wedding, party, street wear or house. 

Having considered these points, we must now resort to the 
best fashion books to find our styles. It is never best to use 
extreme styles, as you will find that, if you do not, your gowns 
will stay in style much longer. 

Sometimes you will have a patron who will choose from your 
books just the thing she should not wear. You must learn, if 
you wish to be a successful dressmaker, to influence her, in a 
tactful way, to choose some other style more suited to her form 
and coloring. 

In planning the two-piece street gowns, no rule can be given, 
except that they are always planned on more severe lines than 
any other garment except the long coat. Both of these must 
be planned according to the prevailing style. 

A party gown must be planned very differently from a street 
suit. For a very formal party gown, low neck and short sleeves 
should be used, except for young girls. Silks of delicate colors 
will be found the most suitable. These goods change nearly 
every year but a few standard ones may be found on the market, 
such as Chiffons, Nets, Crepe-de-Chine, Taffeta, Satin, etc. 
Velvet may always be used. For young girls, thin, soft wool or 
cotton goods are always good, such as Batiste, Crepe, Lawn, 
Taffeta and China silk may also be used. 

A party gown will permit of more trimming than any other 
kind of a gown. Plaiting, shirring and tucking may be used to 
good advantage on light materials. On the heavy materials 
like Velvet, Poplin or Brocade, heavy laces, appliques, jet 
trimmings or embroideries should be used. 

A gown for house wear, but for less formal wear than the party 
gown, used for afternoon receptions, dinners, etc., may be made 



PRACTICAL SEWING AND DRESSMAKING 27 

of heavier materials: Henriettas, Velvets, Broadcloth, Voile, 
All Over Lace over Silk, Embroideries, etc. They may be light 
in color or dark. They are made high-necked and with longer 
sleeves than the evening gown, usually reaching to the elbow, or 
half way between the elbow and wrist. Or they may have long 
sleeves. Of course these garments must be planned according 
to the prevailing style, which will largely influence the trimming 
as well as the material. They should not be so heavily trimmed 
as the party gown. Sometimes a better style can be obtained 
by just a little touch here and there than by placing a large 
amount of trimming on the gown. 

Now we come to the Every Day Gown: 

Almost any material may be used for this class of gown, ex- 
cept transparent materials. These are too dressy. 

In planning this gown we must consider the time of year when 
it is to be worn and in what climate. Whether in the north or 
south. 

For some years past the skirts with separate waists have been 
very popular, while they are still largely used, we are breaking 
away from this style and are going back again to the full dress 
of the same material. 

It is not best to suggest to your patron large figures. Only a 
very slender figure can wear these. When they are used they 
must be matched and usually cut all oneway of the goods thus ne- 
cessitating the buying of a large quantity of goods. Plain goods, 
small checks or tiny figures are best. It will always improve 
your gown if you put in it a yoke of something light in color. 
This seems to relieve the complexion. The waist is usually 
lined, unless the goods is very heavy. A good quality of per- 
caline or spun silk makes the best lining. A drop skirt should 
be made to match the gown or of some color which blends well 
with it. If the goods is thin enough to show the lining through, 
the lining of the waist and skirt should match in color. If not, 
a dark shade of grey always looks well and it will not crock. 
If your patron wishes a silk lining it should be of a good 



28 PRACTICAL SEWING AND DRESSMAKING 

quality of Taffeta. We do not recommend silk for waist 
linings. 

In deciding on the quantity of goods required for a gown, ex- 
perience is the best teacher. You must think of three things. 
Width of goods, whether single or double fold, and the style of 
the gown. 

The measures of the patron must be considered, but unless 
of unusual size this is not important. It usually takes from 5^ 
to 9 yards of double width goods and from 14 to 20 yards of 
single width. The amount depends on how full the gowns are 
being made. 

Do not trust too much to what the clerk tells you. They are 
apt to give small measure. 

For the cotton lining ij^ for the waist, ^ for the sleeves and 
5% yds. for the drop skirt will be all that is required. This varies 
with the style. 



LESSON IV 

THE CHART WITH WHICH THE DRAFTING IS DONE 

The chart consists of two pieces of cardboard, the edges of 
which are cut to form all the different curves needed to draft 
any garment. The two pieces are hinged together so that by 
swinging one about on the other, the longer curves may be 
formed without using the long systems or charts used in many 
methods of drafting. 

Each curve is named according to its use and the ends of each 
curve are lettered. The intermediate points in the curves which 
are used, are also lettered. One corner of the chart is left a 
true square so that it may be used to square one line with another. 
When point G is called for use any point inside the brace which 
will cause the curve to fall where it should. When in the direc- 
tions for the drafts it says, square one line with another, it means 
that the one line must be exactly perpendicular with the other. 
One must form a right angle with the other. 

To do the drafting one should be supplied with a good hard 
pencil, an eraser, and a good straight yardstick. It will be found 
more convenient if the yardstick is sawed off at about 27 inches, 
as the yard length is rather unhandy to use. 

The paper used may be of any size large enough to take the 
draft. A good quality manilla paper is the best. 



29 



TK 








The Chivi Closed 




LESSON V 

HOW TO TAKE MEASURES 

The taking of measures is the most important part of draft- 
ing. If the measures are not taken correctly one can never hope 
to make a draft that will fit. The drafting of a garment is no 
different from the drafting of a house, a bridge, or a machine. 
If one line is inaccurate the entire draft will come wrong. You 
cannot be too careful in taking your measures. Above all things 
do not hurry and do not get excited when taking measures. 
If the person for whom the garment is being made does not 
wish to give time for you to take her measures you should 
not try to make the garment for her. 

Before you begin to take the measures, be sure that the patron 
is standing squarely on both feet. 

The measures taken are : — 

i. Waist measure. 

2. Bust measure. 

3. Neck measure. 

4. Armhole measure. 

5. Under Arm measure. 

6. Upper Front measure. 

7. Back Length measure. 

8. Back Width measure. 

9. Front Length measure. 

10. Arm Length measure. 

11. Elbow measure. 

12. Inside arm measure from armhole to bend of arm. 

13. Hand measure. 

14. Front Length of skirt. 

32 



34 PRACTICAL SEWING AND DRESSMAKING 

15. Side Length of skirt. 

16. Back Length of skirt. 

17. Hip measure. 

Waist Measure. — Stand in front of the patron. Place the 
tape-line about the smallest part of the waist. This measure 
should be very tight. Be sure you have the smallest part of 
the waist, and draw the measure as tight as a garment could be 
worn. 

After taking this measure, place a cord or tape at least y% inch 
wide about the smallest part of the waist and do not remove 
it until you are through taking measures. It is a good plan to 
have a piece of tape about % of an inch wide to the end of which 
has been fastened a small buckle. This can easily and quickly 
be adjusted about the waist and stay in place nicely. 

Bust Measure. — Stand back of the patron. Place the tape- 
line about the body under the arms and bring it together at the 
center back. Hold it firmly together with the right hand and 
step to the side of the patron. Allow the tape-line to slip through 
the fingers and bring it down in front over the highest part of 
the bust. Keep it well up under the arms and straight across 
the back. Allow the patron to draw a long breath and let the 
tape slip as she does this, so that it will be easy about the 
body. 

Neck Measure. — Have the patron remove her collar; never 
try to take the neck measure over a collar unless it is sewed to 
the dress, then take it tightly enough to allow for the collar. 
Place the tape-line about the neck where the collar should sew 
on, and measure about as tight as the collar would be worn. It 
is a good plan to ask the patron what size linen collar she wears. 
This gives an idea as to whether you are getting your measure 
correct or not. 

Armhole Measure. — Take this measure about the shoulder 
up high where the arm joins the body. Be sure to take it up 
over the high part of the bone. This measure should be taken 



PRACTICAL SEWING AND DRESSMAKING 35 

tight, tighter than the armhole can be worn. The armhole can 
be cut out later, but if it comes too large in the draft and all the 
seams have to be taken in to make it right, the good lines which 
gave the waist style will be lost. Be sure to take it tight and be 
sure the patron's sleeve is not bunched up under the tape-line, 
under the arm. 

Before taking the next measure, place a piece of tape or cord 
about the patron so that it comes close up under the arms. Be 
very sure that it runs just straight around the body. It must 
not be allowed to dip down anywhere. Draw it rather tight. 
Do not pay any attention to the prominent part of the bust. 
Just have it perfectly straight about the body, close up under the 
arms. 

Under Arm Measure. — Take this measure directly under 
the arm, from the top of this line, straight down to the bottom of 
the line at the bottom of the waist. Have the patron raise her 
arm just enough to take this measure. She must not raise it 
way up. 

Upper Front Measure. — Place the end of the tape-line 
exactly on the prominent bone at the back of the neck. Bring 
the tape-line around the side of the neck close up to the neck and 
straight down in front to the top of the line which was placed 
around the body under the arms. Be sure that you bring the 
line down exactly straight from the side of the neck. It must 
not slant towards the back or front. 

Back Length Measure. — Place the end of the tape-line on 
the prominent bone at the back of the neck and measure straight 
down the back to the bottom of the line about the smallest part 
of the waist. Be sure to take this measure straight down. It 
must not slant to right or left. Stand directly back of the patron 
to take this measure. 

Back Width Measure. — This measure is taken across the 
back about the middle of the armholes. Be sure to get the meas- 
ure wide enough. Do not pay any attention to the garment the 
patron has on. Measure out to where the arms join the body. 



36 PRACTICAL SEWING AND DRESSMAKING 

Both arms should be straight down at the sides, when this 
measure is taken. 

Front Length Measure. — Place the end of the tape-line 
just where the neck should finish in front and measure straight 
down the front to the bottom of the line about the smallest 
part of the waist. Do not draw this measure tight. Make it 
just as you want the waist to set when finished. 

Arm Length Measure. — Place the end of the tape-line at 
the front of the arm where the arm joins the body about on a 
straight line with the thumb. Measure straight down the arm 
to the creases about the wrist joint. When taking this measure 
have the patron stretch the arm out at right angles to the body. 

Elbow Measure. — Take this measure around the arm at the 
elbow with the arm bent at right angle. Be sure the tape-line 
is over the point of the elbow. 

Inside Arm Measure from Armhole to Bend of Arm. — Take 
this measure from the same point you did the arm length meas- 
ure down to the inside of the elbow. Have the patron bend her 
arm so that you can locate the exact stopping-place. 

Hand Measure. — This measure is taken about the hand with 
the fingers held straight out and the thumb close against the 
hand. Take this measure just snug, not tight. 

Front Length of Skirt. — Take this measure from the lower 
edge of the tape about the waist line at the exact middle of the 
front of the skirt, straight down the front of the skirt to the 
floor. When you cut your pattern you can take off what you 
wish from this length. It is best to take this measure to the 
floor, for it is difficult to tell just where to stop in taking it any 
other way. 

Side Length of Skirt. — Take this measure from the lower edge 
of the tape about the waist line, half way between the middle 
of the back and the middle of the front, straight down the side 
of the skirt to the floor. 

Back Length of Skirt. — Take this measure from a point 
at the middle of the back, at the lower edge of the tape about 



38 PRACTICAL SEWING AND DRESSMAKING 

the waist line, straight down the middle of the back to the 
floor. 

Take Hip Measure. — Take this measure about 5 or 6 inches 
below the waist line, straight around the prominent part of the 
hips. If the skirts are being worn very tight this measure 
should be taken snug. If the skirts are full take the measure 
just easy. 

If you are careful in taking these measures, your garments 
will need very little fitting, perhaps not any. Few of us, however, 
have perfect forms. The method of drafting is worked out in 
inches, so it is bound to come right if the measures are taken 
correctly. 



LESSON VI 

DRAFTING THE SHIRT-WAIST 

Measures used for draft given : — 

Waist measure 25 inches 

Neck measure 13^ inches 

Armhole measure 15 inches 

Bust measure 39 inches 

Back Width measure 13^ inches 

Upper Front measure 10^ inches 

Front Length measure 15 inches 

Under Arm measure 7^ inches 

i. Draw line A-B length of Back Length measure. 

2. From A measure on line A-B Under Arm measure. Mark 
this point C. 

3. At C square a line with line A-B. 

4. From C measure on this line % of Bust measure. Mark 
this point D. 

5. From C on line C-D measure Yi of Back Width measure. 
Mark this point E. 

6. At E square line with line C-D. 

7. From E on this line measure 1-3 of Armhole measure. 
Mark this point F. 

8. Measure Y 2 inch above point B. Mark this point G. 

9. At G square a line with line G-A. 

10. From G on this line measure ij^ inches. Mark this point 
H. 

n. Place point on the chart at point B and draw curve 
through H. 

12. With curve D-C on the chart draw a curve through H 
and F. 

39 



40 PRACTICAL SEWING AND DRESSMAKING 

13. Extend this curve beyond point F Y2 inch. Mark this 
point I. 

14. From E measure on line C-D 34 of Armhole measure. 
Mark this point J. 

15. Find a point half way between J and E. Mark this point 
K. 

16. At point J square a line with line D-C. 

17. From J on this line measure 2^ inches. Mark this point 
L. 

18. Place point G on the chart at point I and draw curve 
through K. 

19. Place point on the chart at point L and draw curve 
through K. 

20. Extend line E-F up 1% inches. Mark this point M. 

21. At point M square a line with line E-M. 

22. From M on this line measure 2 inches. Mark this point 
N. 

23. Place point F on the chart at L and draw curve through 
N. 

24. Measure curve I-H. 

25. From N measure the length of line I-H. Mark this point 
O. 

26. Square a line with D-C so that it will pass through point 
O. 

27. Measure from line D-C on this line, the Upper Front 
measure less what is used in the Back Neck. Mark this point 
P. 

28. From point P measure down 34 of neck measure. Mark 
this point Q. 

29. From Q measure up Y2 inch. Mark this point R. 

30. At R square a line with line Q-R. 

31. On this line from R measure 1-6 of Neck measure, and 
add 34 inch. Mark this point S. 

32. Place point J on the chart at S and draw curve through 
P. 



S'HIRT WAIST 
DRAFT. 




WV V 



4 2 PRACTICAL SEWING AND DRESSMAKING 

33. From point E on line C-D measure 1 inch to the left. 
Mark this point T. 

34. At T square a line with line C-D and draw length of Under 
Arm measure. Mark this point U. 

35. From U measure 1 inch to the right. Mark this point V. 

36. Place point B on the chart at point T and draw curve 
through V. 

37. Measure 1 inch to left of U. Mark this point W. 

38. Place point B on the chart at point T and draw curve 
through W. 

39. Draw a line from S through D. 

40. From S measure Front Length measure. Mark this 
point X. 

In cutting pattern allow all seams. 



LESSON VII 

DRAFTING THE SHIRT-WAIST SLEEVE 

Measures used for draft given — 

Arm Length measure 20 inches 

Arm Length to Elbow <p>£ inches 

Elbow measure 1 2% inches 

Hand measure 8 inches 

Armhole measure 15 inches 

i. Draw line A-B Arm Length measure. 

2. From A on line A-B measure Arm Length to Elbow. 
Mark this point C 

3. At B square a line with line A-B. 

4. At C square a line with line A-B. 

5. At A square a line with line A-B. 

6. From B measure on line drawn 1 inch. Mark this point 
D. 

7. From C measure on line drawn % inch. Mark this point 
E. 

8. Extend line drawn at A, i inch to the left. Mark this 
point F. 

9. Place point D on the chart at F and draw curve through 
E. 

10. Connect points E and D with a straight line. 

11. From D measure 1 inch to the right. Mark this point 
G. 

12. From G measure to the right 2 inches more than the 
hand measure. Mark this point H. 

13. From H measure to the right 1 inch. Mark this point I. 
The distance between D and G and H and I is for gathers. 

43 



44 PRACTICAL SEWING AND DRESSMAKING 

14. From E on line drawn measure Yi mcn to the right. Mark 
this point J. 

15. From J measure the Elbow measure. Mark this point 
K. 

16. From K to the right measure }/% inch. Mark this point 
L. 

17. Connect points L and I by straight line. 

18. From A measure on line drawn the Armhole measure. 
Mark this point M. 

19. From M measure to the right 2 inches. Mark this point 
N. 

20. Extend line A-B above A 2Y2 inches. Mark this point 0. 

21. Square a line with line A-B at point 0. 

22. From A on line A-N measure i% inches. Mark this 
point P. 

23. From M measure 3 inches to the left. Mark this point 

q. 

24. At P square a line with line A-N and mark the point R 
where this line touches the line from point 0. 

25. At Q square a line with line A-N and mark the point S 
where this line touches the line from O. 

26. Place point D on the chart at L and draw curve through 
N. 

27. Place point G on the chart at point R and draw curve 
through point F. 

28. Place point F on the chart at point S and draw a curve 
through point M. Continue the curve to point N. 

29. Find the point half way between P and Q. Mark this 
point T. 

30. Using T as a center and T-R as a radius draw an arc 
from R to S. 

31. Find a point half way between G and H. 

32. From this point square a line with line B-I and draw % 
of an inch long. Mark this point U. 

33. Connect U with I and D using curve C-D on the chart. 



5" fiirt- Waist Sleeve. 






1? 




s_ 




t-y 


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P T I 


a 


AV — 7/v 



5' 




46 PRACTICAL SEWING AND DRESSMAKING 

34. The cuff is drafted straight. Two inches longer than the 
hand measure and 3 inches wide. The lower corner may be 
curved if desired. 

In cutting pattern allow all seams. 



LESSON VIII 

DRAFTING THE BLOUSE -WAIST 

The only changes made in the shirt-waist to make the 
blouse-waist are — 

i. Change the Under Arm seam from T to K. 

2. Draw both the Under Arm seam for the back and the 
front, a straight slant from K through V and W. 

3. The one through V is the Under Arm seam for the front 
and the one through W is the Under Arm of the back. 

4. Slant the middle back out i]4, inches. 

5. Add 4 inches to the bottom of the waist for blouse. 

6. Hem the bottom with a narrow hem and run an elastic in it. 

7. Cut away the front to a V shaped opening, line b, and fin- 
ish neck with a large sailor collar. 



47 



LESSON IX 

HOW TO CUT THE SAILOR COLLAR, OR ANY LARGE COLLAR 

Many people draft the sailor collar but it takes considerable 
time, so we will teach you a much quicker and simpler way and 
one which will not fail to fit the garment for which it is intended. 

After the draft of the waist has been made and the pattern 
cut from paper, pin the shoulder seam together. Be sure to pin 
right on the line of each part. Spread the pattern out flat on the 
table and place the center back on a straight edge of the paper, 
and pin in place. Measure from the neck down the back the 
depth the collar is desired and square a line with the back line of 
the waist. Draw this line out as wide as the collar is to be across 
the back. Now decide how far you wish the collar to extend 
down the front and draw a line from the end of the line just 
drawn to the point in front. The best way to shape the outer 
edge of the collar is to cut the neck portion and then pin the 
pattern to the bust form and cut the edge any shape desired. 
You can see in this way just how the collar will look when fin- 
ished. Any lay down collar may be cut in this way. 



49 



/ How To Cut 

\ The S&ilor Collar 

\ 

\ 

Lar{€ Colli v. 










< 



/ 
/ 



LESSON X 

HOW TO DRAFT THE KIMONO WAIST 

To make the kimono waist. Trace off the draft of the shirt- 
waist on another piece of paper. Cut out, allowing seams every- 
where. Pin the back pattern to the front at the shoulder seam 
and spread out flat on the table. Take a large sheet of paper and 
place the pattern on it having the front line on a straight edge 
of the paper. This will bring the back bias. Draw a line from 
the neck out so that it will divide the Armhole into two very 
nearly equal parts. The back part will be a little smaller than 
the front. Draw two lines beginning about \ x /i inches below the 
Armhole on the under arm seam almost parallel to the line 
just drawn. They should come together very slightly towards 
the ends. Draw these lines as long as you wish the sleeve to be 
and connect them with a straight line. This forms the sleeve 
of the waist. It is never best to try to make the sleeves much 
more than elbow length, as it is difficult to raise the arm if they 
are much longer. 

In basting up the kimono waist, it should always be basted 
with seams on the right side until after it is tried on and fitted. 
After it has been thoroughly fitted, French seam with a very 
narrow seam so that it will turn well. 

These waists may be as fancy as one wishes, having tucks 
or shirring over the shoulder. For a dress waist they are often 
made with a lining having a sewed in sleeve. This gives more 
freedom in raising the arm, and the sleeve is not so liable to tear 
out under the arm. For the Kimono Shirt-Waist the sleeve 
should be quite loose. 



51 



/ 2 
1 f 
1 1 

i I 


li i 1T> 1) o 


1 j 
1 I 
1 
1 / 


WcLlSt 


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LESSON XI 

THE MAKING AND FINISHING OF THE SHIRT-WAIST 

You have learned to draft the Shirt-Waist and the Shirt- 
Waist Sleeve. We will now take up the making and finishing 
of the shirt-waist. 

After the draft has been made, trace off each part of the waist 
on another piece of paper. Cut out, allowing seams everywhere. 
This gives you an exact pattern to use in cutting out the waist. 

Before using cotton goods it should be shrunk. Place in 
warm water over night and when nearly dry press. If the goods 
is colored put some salt in the water. 

Put all plaits and tucks in the goods before laying on the 
pattern. If there is no up or down to the goods, a piece long 
enough to cut both fronts may be cut off and the two tucked 
at once. 

All trimming should be put on after the waist is cut out but 
before it is basted up. 

If the waist is to be tailor made, it will have a box plait down 
the front. To make this, cut a straight strip from the edge of the 
goods wide enough to allow for turning under. This piece should 
be just the length of one side of the front. Baste the piece on 
the edge of the cloth from which the right side front is to be 
cut, and stitch J^ inch from both edges. (See 111.) Your tucks 
must be planned to come at the right distance from this plait. 
If you only want to tuck yoke deep, fold the goods you have 
cut off for fronts together in the center crosswise. (See 111.) 
Measure on each part, from the fold down, just how deep you 
wish the yoke to come and tuck between the marks. 
If you wish the tucks to grow shorter towards the armholes, 

53 



54 PRACTICAL SEWING AND DRESSMAKING 

mark the goods slanting. To put in the tucks, fold the cloth 
lengthwise just where you want the tucks to come. Measure 
the width you want the tucks and put in with a running stitch 
or on the machine. Press the tucks before you try to cut the 
waist. When you fold the goods together to cut the fronts, be 
sure that the tucks for each piece lie exactly on top of each other. 
Cut from the goods, marking all seams with the tracing wheel. 
Baste up and try on. Baste on the collar band, after stitching 
the seams of the waist. To cut the collar band : use your tape- 
line to draw a circle. Take a radius of 10 inches. Use the corner 
of the paper for the center of the circle and draw parts of two 
circles i inch apart. Measure off enough length, from the edge 
of the paper on the lower circle, for ^ the neck measure. Cut 
out the pattern and allow seams on both sides when you cut it 
from the cloth. 

To finish the bottom of the shirt-waist sleeve, if tailor made. 
Make a cuff of three thicknesses of goods, if cotton, or with an 
interlining of cotton, if wool, 3^ inches wide and ioj^ inches 
long, straight of the goods lengthwise. Slash the sleeves up on 
line W-V about 4 inches. Baste on the under edge of this opening 
a strip of goods about ij^ inches wide, having turned in the 
edges (see 111. 1) so that it projects from the opening. 

Lay the sleeve on the table right side up, and place over this 
piece just sewed on a piece about 2^ inches wide which has 
been folded in the middle lengthwise and both edges turned 
in. Place the lengthwise fold of this piece so that it just covers 
the under seam. The upper turned in edge of the piece will come 
on the right side of the sleeve and the under edge on the wrong 
side of the sleeve just opposite the other. Baste into place and 
stitch. It looks best to finish the upper end of this piece, which 
comes on the right side of the sleeve, to a point. Stitch about 
the point on the machine. (See Ills. 1 and 2.) Stitch up the 
sleeve. Gather the bottom, leaving i^ inches each side of the 
seam plain. Baste the pieces of the cuff together wrong side 
out, leaving one long side open. Turn and baste the edge on 



PRACTICAL SEWING AND DRESSMAKING 55 

the right side, having the edge very smooth and even. Notch 
the open side of the cuff about 1 inch from the center. Baste 
to the bottom of the sleeve, having the shortest part come on the 
under side of the sleeve. 

In basting to the sleeve have the right side of the cuff against 
the right side of the sleeve. Only baste two of the three pieces 
of which the cuff is made, at the first basting, leaving the third, 
or lining, loose. Turn the cuff down and turn in the edge of the 
lining and baste in place. Stitch all four sides of the cuff on the 
right side very near the edge. Gather the top of the sleeve from 
about 2 inches from the seam on the upper side, and 5}^ inches 
from the seam on the under side. Sew in and bind the armhole, 
after having tried on the waist for the last time. Work a button- 
hole in each end of the neck band, one in the center of the back 
and one at each end of the cuffs. They may also be worked down 
the front if desired. Finish the bottom of the waist as the patron 
wishes. Some like the fullness stitched in, while others want it 
left loose so that they can place it where they wish when the 
waist is worn. 

The fancy shirt-waist should fasten in the back instead of 
the front. The same draft is used. It may be tucked yoke deep 
across the front and down the back, tucked in clusters with in- 
sertion of lace or embroidery between or any sort of ornaments 
placed on the front. 

In making collars and yokes of lace insertion, cut a correct 
pattern from white paper. Baste the rows of lace on this and 
stitch together on the machine. Tear the paper away and you 
have your yoke and collar just the desired shape. 

All tucks must be placed in the goods before it is cut. 

For the fancy waist the sleeves may be made as fancy as one 
wishes. They may be short or long as the style demands. For 
the short sleeve, the draft given may be used by laying a plait 
lengthwise in the pattern thus taking out the gathers, leaving 
only a few at the armhole. A Leg O'Mutton sleeve may be made 
from this same draft by laying a plait lengthwise beginning at 





CotUvr B<xy\A 




PRACTICAL SEWING AND DRESSMAKING 57 

the bottom and letting it out gradually towards the top. The 
shirt-waist draft is used to make the shirt-waist dress. 
Combined with the seven gored skirt it makes a fine shirt-waist 
suit. 



LESSON XII 

DRAFTING THE TIGHT WAIST WITH BACK FORMS 

Measures used for draft given — 

Waist measure 25 inches 

Neck measure i3>£ inches 

Armhole measure 15 inches 

Bust measure 39 inches 

Back Width measure 13K inches 

Under Arm measure 7^4 Inches 

Front Length measure 15^ inches 

Upper Front measure io|<4 inches 

Back Length measure 16 inches 

i. Draw line A-B length of back. 

2. From A measure the Under Arm measure. Mark this 
point C. 

3. Measure up from B J^ inch. Mark this point D. 

4. Square line D-E with line D-C at point D. 

5. D to E is i]/2 inches. 

6. Place point on the chart at point B and draw curve 
through point E. 

7. At C square a line with line A-B. 

8. From C on this line measure Y2 of Bust measure. Mark 
this point F. 

9. From C on line C-F measure J^ of Back width. Mark this 
point G. 

10. At G square a line with line C-F. 

11. From point G measure on this line 1-3 of Armhole meas- 
ure. Mark this point H. 

12. Place I half way between G and H. 

59 



60 PRACTICAL SEWING AND DRESSMAKING 

13. With curve D-C on the chart, draw curve through E 
and H. 

14. Extend line G-H above point H 1% inches. Mark this 
point J. 

15. At J square a line with line G-J. 

16. From J on this line measure 2 inches. Mark this point K. 

17. Measure from G on line C-F J4 of Armhole measure. 
Mark this point L. 

18. Square a line at L with line C-F and draw 2Y2 inches 
long. Mark this point M. 

19. Find a point half way between L and G. Mark this 
point N. 

20. Extend curve E-H Y2 inch beyond H. 

2 1 . Place point G on the chart at the end of this curve, holding 
the chart to the left, and draw a curve through point N. 

22. Place point O on the chart at point M and draw a curve 
through M and N. 

23. Place point F on the chart at point M, holding chart to the 
left, and draw curve through points M and K. 

24. Measure the full length of curve E-H and mark the same 
distance from K on line K-O. Mark this point 0. 

25. Square a line with line C-F so that it will run through 
point O. 

26. Measure up on this line from line C-F the length of 
Upper Front measure less what is used in the back of the neck. 
Mark this point P. 

27. With curve D-C on the chart draw a curve through P and 
K. 

28. From P measure down Y of Neck measure. Mark this 
point Q. 

29. Square a line at Q with line P-Q. 

30. Measure from Q, 1-6 of the Neck measure and add \i 
inch. Mark this point R. 

31. Place point J on the chart at R and draw a curve through 
P. 



PRACTICAL SEWING AND DRESSMAKING 61 

32. Measure on line R-F the Front Length measure. Mark 
this point S. 

33. Square a line with line C-F at point N. 

34. Measure down on this line the Under Arm measure. 
Mark this point T. 

35. Draw a line from T to A. 

36. Measure from A on line A-T % of an inch. Mark this 
point U. 

37. Draw line B-U. 

38. Find a point half way between T and U. Mark this 
point W. 

39. From point W measure to the right 2}^ inches. Mark 
this point V. 

40. Place point F on the chart at a point % of an inch below 
I and draw with curve F-C on the chart, a curve through V. 

41. Place point D on the chart at the point where curve I-V 
crosses line C-F and draw curve through point W. 

42. Measure towards the right from T on line A-T 1 inch. 
Mark this point X. 

43. With curve D-C on the chart draw a curve through points 
N and X. 

44. From point T measure towards the left i}4 inches. Mark 
this point Y. 

45. Place point B on the chart at point N and draw curve 
through points N and Y, holding the chart to the left. 

46. Place point C on the chart at S and draw curve through 
Y. 

47. From point S measure towards the right 1 inch. Mark 
this point Z. 

48. Place point B on the chart at point F and draw curve 
through Z. 

49. From Z towards the right measure 1% inches. Mark this 
point a. 

50. To find out how much to take out in the darts, — Find on 
the tape-line Yi of Waist measure. Place this point at U. Now 



62 PRACTICAL SEWING AND DRESSMAKING 

measure from U to V, W to X and Z to a. Place the point 
which falls at a, at point Y and with what is left measure to- 
wards point Z. Mark this point. The distance from this point 
to a is what must be taken out in darts, less the space we leave 
between the darts (b to d), which should be about i inch. The 
front dart is always made larger than the back one. 

51. From a to b is width of front dart. In this case 3 inches. 

52. From d to e is width of back dart. In this case 2 inches. 

53. c is half way between a and b and f is half way between 
d and e. 

54. From c through a point on the shoulder line 1 inch from 
P, draw a line. 

55. Measure up on this line, from point c, 8 inches for a 
tall person and 6 inches for a short person. Mark this point g. 
(8 ins. is used in this draft.) 

56. From point g measure towards the right 3 inches exactly 
parallel with line C-F. Mark this point h. 

57. With curve C-D on the chart, draw curves a-g, b-g, h-d, 
e-h. 

58. Measure down from points U, T, f, c, and Z, 5 inches. 

59. Connect points U and i. 

60. From a point half way between V and W, square a line 
with line A-T and draw 5 inches long. Mark this point j. 

61. Connect point j with V and j with W, with straight lines. 

62. Extend line N-T down 5 inches. Mark this point k. 

63. Connect point k with X. 

64. Measure to the right of k, 1 inch, mark this point 1. 

65. Place point F on the chart at Y and draw curve 
through 1. 

66. Make the distance from m to n and o to p about % less 
than from e to d and a to b. 

67. Connect a and e with a straight line. 

68. Draw line Z-q straight down 5 inches. 

69. Connect m and e, n and d, o and b, p and a. 

Note — In drafting any of the waists below the waist line, 



Ti$li Waist D-ri}h 



Wii h Back F^-r >rx. 
■P 




V//7n 



64 PRACTICAL SEWING AND DRESSMAKING 

it will be found necessary to change the measures for different 
persons. Some who have very small waist measure will have 
large hips, while some with large waist measure will have small 
hips. Use the hip measure and change each measure a little so 
that the draft 5 inches below the waist line will be the exact 
hip measure. 

In cutting out the Armhole of any waist, remember that you 
took the measure tighter than it could be worn, so it must be 
cut out more than the draft. See dotted line on draft. 

In cutting the pattern from the draft allow seams everywhere. 



LESSON XIII 

DRAFTING THE WAIST WITHOUT BACK FORMS 

Measures used in draft given — 

Waist measure 25 inches 

Neck measure i$}4 inches 

Armhole measure 15 inches 

Bust measure 39 inches 

Back Width measure 13^ inches 

Under Arm measure 72< inches 

Front Length measure i$}4 inches 

Upper Front measure 10^ inches 

Back Length measure 16 inches 

i. Draw line A-B length of back. 

2. From B to D is J^ inch. 

3. At D square a line with line A-B. 

4. On this line measure from point D ij^ inches. Mark this 
point E. 

5. Place point on the chart at point B and draw curve 
through E. 

6. At point C square a line with A-B. 

7. On this line measure from point C Yi the Bust measure. 
Mark this point F. 

8. From point C on line C-F measure J^ of back width. Mark 
this point G. 

9. At point G square a line with line C-F. 

10. On this line measure from G, 1-3 of Armhole measure. 
Mark this point H. 

1 1 . Place point D on the chart at E and draw curve through 
H and extend curve Y2 inch beyond H. 

6s 



66 PRACTICAL SEWING AND DRESSMAKING 

12. Measure on line G-H, from point H, i 3-4 inches. Mark 
this point I. 

13. From G on line C-F measure 34 Armhole measure. Mark 
this point J. 

14. Find a point half way between J and G. Mark this 
point L. 

15. At point J square a line with line C-F. 

16. Measure on this line from J, 2^ inches. Mark this point 
M. 

17. Place point G on the chart at the end of curve E-H and 
draw a curve through point L. 

18. Place point O on the chart at M and draw a curve through 
L. 

19. Place point F on the chart at M and draw a curve through 
K. 

20. Extend line I-K to the left of K. 

21. On this line measure from K the same length as the curve 
from E extended through H. Mark this point N. 

22. Square a line with line C-F so that it will pass through 
N. 

23. Measure on this line from line C-F the Upper Front 
measure, less the Back Neck measure. Mark this point O. 

24. With curve D-C draw a curve through K and O. 

25. From O measure down 34 the Neck measure. Mark this 
point P. 

26. At P square a line with line O-P. 

27. On this line measure from P, 1-6 of the Neck measure 
and add 34 inch. Mark this point Q. 

28. Place point J on the chart at Q and draw curve through 
point O. 

29. Draw a straight line from Q through F. 

30. On this line measure from Q, the Front Length measure. 
Mark this point R. 

31. Find a point half way between J and L. Mark this point 
S. 



PRACTICAL SEWING AND DRESSMAKING 67 

32. At point S, square a line with line C-F. 

33. Measure on this line from line C-F the Under Arm 
measure. Mark this point T. 

34. Connect T and A with a straight line. 

35. From A measure on this line 1 inch. Mark this point 17. 

36. Connect U and B. 

37. Find a point half way between U and T and measure J^. 
inch to the right of this point. Mark this point V. 

38. Place point C on the chart at V and with curve C-F on 
the chart, draw a curve through point G. 

39. From V measure 1 inch to the left. Mark this point 
W. 

40. Place point B on the chart at G and draw a curve through 
W. 

41. Measure 1 inch to the right of T. Mark this point X. 

42. With curve D-C on the chart draw a curve from X to S.. 

43. Measure ij^ inches to the left of T. 

44. Place point C on the chart at X, and draw curve to S- 

45. Measure from U to V and from W to X. This shows how 
much of the Waist measure has been used in the back. 

46. From R measure to the right }/& inch. Mark this point 
Z. 

47. Place point A on the chart at Z and draw curve touching 
line F-R. 

48. From point Y measure towards point Z what is left of 
the Waist measure after taking out what is used in the back. 
Mark this point. 

49. Measure the distance from this point to Z. This gives 
what must be taken out in darts to bring the garment in to the 
proper Waist measure, in this case 4% inches. 

50. We will make the Front Dart 2% inches and the back 
one 2 inches. 

51. Place point C on the chart at R and draw curve C-F 
through Y. 

52. From Z measure 2 inches. Mark this point a. 



68 PRACTICAL SEWING AND DRESSMAKING 

53. From a measure 2% inches (Front Dart). Mark this 
point b. 

54. From b, measure 1 inch. Mark this point c. 

55. From c measure 2 inches (Back Dart). Mark this point d. 

56. Find a point half way between a and b. Mark this point e. 

57. From a point 1 inch to the right of O draw a straight 
line through e. 

58. From e measure up on this line 8 inches for a tall person 
and 6 for a short person (we use 8 inches in this draft). Mark 
this point f . 

59. With curve D-C on the chart draw a curve from f to a 
and from f to b. 

60. Find a point half way between c and d. Mark this point 

g- 

61. Measure from f, 3 inches to the right and parallel to 
line C-F. Mark this point h. 

62. Draw a straight line connecting h and g. 

63. With curve D-C on the chart connect h and d and h and c. 

64. To form the bottom of the waist. — 

Measure down 5 inches from A. Mark this point i. Connect 
U and i with a straight line. 

65. Find a point half way between V and W. At this point 
square a line with line A-T. 

66. Measure down on this line 5 inches. Mark this point 
j. Connect j and V, and j and W with straight lines. 

67. Extend line S-T down 5 inches. Mark this point k. 
Connect k and X with a straight line. 

68. Measure 1 inch to the right of k. Mark this point 1. 

69. Place point F on the chart at Y, and draw curve to 1. 

70. Extend line h-g down 5 inches. Mark this point m. 

7 1 . Using Y2 the distance from c to d as a measure and placing 
the middle of this distance at m, mark points either side of 
m — o and n. 

72. Connect n with d and o with c by straight lines. Extend 
line e-f down 5 inches. Mark this point p. 



Ti$M Waist r i } t 

Wit A out #ac?( Form 




7 o PRACTICAL SEWING AND DRESSMAKING 

73. With p as a center, using Y% the distance from a to b, 
mark points r and q. 

74. Connect r and a, and q and b with straight lines. 

75. Extend curve Z straight down 5 inches. 

76. Connect a and d with a straight line. 

Note — For a person with a very large waist measure it is 
best to make the distance from b to c a little more, say ij^ inches, 
or even 2 inches. 

This waist is the best one to use for linings as the back form 
seam is apt to show especially where the goods is thin. 



LESSON XIV 

DRAFTING THE WAIST WITH FRENCH FORMS 

Measures used in this draft — 

Waist measure 25 inches 

Neck measure isH inches 

Armhole measure 15 inches 

Bust measure '. 39 inches 

Back Width measure 13K inches 

Under Arm measure 7^ inches 

.Front Length measure 15^ inches 

Upper Front measure io>^ inches 

Back Length measure : 16 inches 

i. Draw line A-B the length of Back measure. 

2. Measure from A the Under Arm measure. Mark this 
point C. 

3. B to D is J^ inch. 

4. At D square a line with A-D. 

5. Measure from D on this line ij^ inches. Mark this point 
E. 

6. Place point on the chart at B and draw curve through 
E. 

7. At C square a line with line A-B. 

8. C to F is 3^2 of Bust measure. 

9. From C on line C-F measure Y2 of Back Width measure. 
Mark this point G. 

10. At G square a line with line C-F. 

11. Measure on this line from point G, 1-3 of Armhole meas- 
ure. Mark this point H. 

12. Place point D on the chart at E and draw curve through 
H. Extend curve Y2 inch beyond H. 

71 



72 PRACTICAL SEWING AND DRESSMAKING 

13. Extend line G-H above H 1% inches. Mark this point 
I. 

14. At I square a line with line G-I. 

15. On this line measure from I, 2 inches. Mark this point 

16. From G on line C-F measure 34 of the Armhole measure. 
Mark this point K. 

17. Find a point half way between K and G. 

18. At K square a line with line C-F. 

19. Measure on this line, 2^ inches from K. Mark this 
point M. 

20. Measure full length of curve E-H and mark the same 
measure from J on line I- J, extended. Mark this point N. 

21. Place point G on the chart at point H and draw curve 
through L. 

22. Place point on the chart at M and draw a curve 
through L. 

23. Place point F on the chart at M and draw curve through 
J. Place point D on the chart at and draw curve through 

j- 

24. Square a line with line C-F so that it will pass through 
point N. 

25. Measure on this line from line C-F the Upper Front 
measure, less what is used in the Back Neck. Mark this point 
O. 

26. From measure on this line 34 the Neck measure. Mark 
this point P. 

27. At P square a line with line O-P. 

28. Measure on this line from P 1-6 of Neck measure. Add 
J4 inch. Mark this point Q. 

29. Place point J on the chart at Q and draw curve through 0. 

30. From Q draw line through F. 

31. From Q on this line measure the Front Length measure. 
Mark this point R. 

32. At L square a line with line C-F. 



PRACTICAL SEWING AND DRESSMAKING 73 

33. Measure on this line from L the Under Arm measure. 
Mark this point S. 

34. Connect S and A with a straight line. 

35. From A on this line measure % oi an mcn - Mark this 
point T. 

36. Connect T and B with a straight line. 

37. Measure on the shoulder curve 2 inches from the Armhole. 
Mark this point U. 

38. Find a point half way between T and S and measure J/£ 
inch to the left of this point. Mark this point V. 

39. From V measure i}£ inches to the right. Mark this point 
W. 

40. Connect U and W with a straight line. 

41. Place point C on the chart at V and let point D touch 
line U-W. Draw curve. 

42. Measure to the right of S, 1 inch. Mark this point X. 

43. Place point D on the chart at L and draw curve through 
X. 

44. Measure to the left of S ij^ inches. Mark this point Y. 

45. Place point A on the chart at Y and draw curve through 
L. 

46. Measure from T to W and from V to X. This shows 
how much of the waist measure has been used in the back. 

47. Measure from Y towards R what is left of the waist 
measure, after taking out what was used in the back. Mark this 
point. 

48. Measure the distance from this point to point R. This 
gives the amount to be taken out in the dart to bring the waist 
into the correct waist measure. In this case it is 4^ inches. 

49. Place point C on the chart at R and draw curve through 
Y, using curve C-F on the chart. 

50. Measure from J on curve J-0 2 inches. Mark this point 
Z. 

51. Measure from R 2^ inches. Mark this point a. 

52. Connect a and Z with a straight line. 



Tiflt Wnst wii^ 
Fve Nch Forms. 




f.i 'e 



PRACTICAL SEWING AND DRESSMAKING 75 

53. Measure from a on line a-Z 8 inches for a tall person and 
6 inches for a short person. Mark this point aa. 

54. With curve D-C on the chart connect a with aa. 

55. Measure to right of a 4^ inches (dart). Mark this point 
b. 

56. Place point B on the chart at aa and draw curve through 
b. 

57. Find a point half way between a and b. Mark this point 
c. 

58. Connect a and b with a straight line. 

59. At c square a line with line a-b, and measure from c, 5 
inches. Mark this point d. 

60. Find x /i the distance from a to b and with d as a center, 
mark points e and f. 

61. Connect e and b with a straight line. 

62. Connect a and f with a straight line. 

63. Extend line Q-R below R 5 inches. 

64. Connect b and Y with a straight line. 

65. Extend line A-B below A 5 inches. Mark this point h. 

66. Connect h and T with a straight line. 

67. Find a point half way between V and W. Mark this 
point g. 

68. Square a line at g, with line A-S and measure down from 
g, 5 inches. Mark this point i. 

69. Connect W and i with a straight line, also connect V and i. 

70. Extend line L-S below S 5 inches. Mark this point j. 

71. Measure to the right of j 1 inch. Mark this point k. 

72. Place point F at Y and draw curve through k. 

73. Connect X and j with a straight line. 
In cutting pattern allow all seams. 



LESSON XV 

HOW TO CUT, FIT AND MAKE THE WAIST 

We have finished planning the gown, and have learned to 
draft the different kinds of waists. We will now take up the 
Cutting, Fitting and Making of the waist. 

After making the draft you should trace, with the tracing 
wheel each piece of the draft off on another piece of paper, and 
cut out each part allowing seams everywhere. Y2 mcn seam 
should be allowed at the Armhole, Neck and Back Form pieces. 
1 inch at the shoulder and 1^ inches at the Under Arm seams, 
down the back and at the front. This much need not be allowed 
at the back unless the waist is to be open there. Be very 

CAREFUL TO MARK THE TRUE WAIST LINE ON EACH PIECE. 

After the correct pattern has been cut from the paper, spread 
the lining out on a table. Lay the different parts of the pattern 
on the lining to the best advantage to save cloth. Be very 

CAREFUL THAT THE TRUE WAIST LINE OF EACH PIECE IS ON THE 

straight of the cloth crosswise, so that they will not stretch 
off on the bias when finished. Be sure to trace the true 

WAIST LINE OF EACH PIECE BEFORE YOU PICK UP THE PATTERN, 

also trace all seams. 

We now have our waist lining all cut out and are ready to baste 
it up. Begin by basting up the back seam, if the waist is to open 
in front, if not this seam will not be basted. Next baste the 
side forms next to the back, taking care not to stretch the 
seam where it is circling. Last of all the second form seams. 
In basting all seams the pieces must always be pinned together 
at the waist line before you begin to baste and they should 
always be made to come out even at the armhole. It is always 
best to pin the seam the full length before you begin to baste. 

77 



78 PRACTICAL SEWING AND DRESSMAKING 

Baste the darts in the front pieces, pinning the waist line first. 
After these are basted, baste the under arm seams and shoul- 
der seams. Be very careful not to lose the little curves in the 
shoulder seams. In basting the lining, do not crush or soil it. 
It will never fit well if you do. Now the waist is all basted 
and we are ready to have our patron come for a first fitting. 
If you have learned to take your measures correctly there should 
be very few, if any changes to make. I have put many linings 
on persons where there were no changes to make at all. Of course 
if a person is out of shape in any way, their lining must be fitted. 

Your patron has come to be fitted. Place the lining on her 
and pin up very carefully, following the tracing either in front 
or in the back as the case may be. 

To fit the waist. — If the neck is a little tight, cut out a small 
seam. If very tight, open the shoulder seam a little way and 
let out. If the lining is too tight or too loose at the bust, it 
should be taken in or let out at the under arm seam. If the 
waist draws from the neck to the armhole, open the shoulder 
seam at the neck and let out in front. Be sure the waist is loose 
enough between the shoulders and that it is not too loose at 
the armhole. If it is, take in the form seams a little. 

After the lining has been thoroughly fitted, all the seams 
should be stitched and pressed open on the pressing cushion, 
after they have all been trimmed to about 3^2 inch. Clip each 
seam Y2 inch below and above the waist line. Be very careful 
not to stretch the seams or lose any of the curves in pressing. 
It is the curve which gives style to the waist. 

We are ready now to bone the lining. Use the best quality 
of Featherbone. Sometimes real whalebone is used, but it has 
grown very expensive and most dressmakers now substitute 
Featherbone. It will take about 3 or 4 yards of the bone. Use 
silk thread for stitching it in, and the longest stitch your machine 
will make. You can get the Featherbone in either silk or cotton. 
The quality of the gown will determine which to use. The style 
of the gown will determine just how far below the waist line 



PRACTICAL SEWING AND DRESSMAKING 79 

the bones should be allowed to run. If the waist is to be worn 
outside the skirt, it should be boned x /i inch at back and sides 
and 1 inch in front below the waist line. If a princess gown or a 
one-piece gown of any sort, the bones should run 3 or 4 inches 
below the waist line. In this case the waist should be fitted 
very snug about the hips, so that the ends of the bones will not 
stick out. The bones for each seam will be of a different length. 
The back center bone should be 6 or 7 inches long above the 
waist line. Each bone should grow shorter towards the under 
arm seam. This bone should be the shortest of all, about 4 or 5 
inches above the waist line. The bones for the darts should be 
about an inch shorter than the dart so that it will not show. The 
front bone should be the same as the dart bone. If the waist 
opens in the front there will be a bone of equal length on each 
side of the front. These bones should be run in the hem and 
stitched, and not placed on the outside as on the seams. If the 
waist opens in the back, the two bones should be run in the 
hems in the back instead of in the front, then the front bone 
will be stitched on the same as the others. 

Cut the bones about ij^ inches longer than you want them. 
Rip the covering back from each end about ^ inch and cut the 
bone off. Turn the covering down over the end and fasten 
securely but neatly. Pin the upper end to the seam where you 
want it to come, and spring the bone so that the lower end 
will come where it should. The bones are placed on the inside 
of the waist, and not between the lining and the outside. Place 
under the machine, holding the bone in place so that it will 
follow the seam. The lining will stretch to the bone. Always 
begin stitching at the top of the bone and 1 inch from the end. 
This leaves 1 inch of the bone loose at the upper end, and pre- 
vents the end showing when the waist is worn. After the bones 
are all stitched in, draw the ends of the threads through on the 
right side of the waist and tie securely. Sew hooks and eyes 
on the lining and it is finished. No. 2 hooks and eyes with a 
hump are best, black for dark colors and white for light colors. 



So PRACTICAL SEWING AND DRESSMAKING 

The hooks are sewed on the right-hand side of the front when 
the waist opens in front. If in the back they are placed on the 
left-hand side. Pin the two sides of the lining together, being 
sure that the true waist lines are even. Mark with pins the 
place where each hook and each eye should go, making them 
about i J^ inches apart. Both the hooks and eyes must be sewed 
on the wrong side of the lining, the eyes coming out just far 
enough to let the hooks slide in. If the gown is to have a fancy 
yoke, do not sew hooks and eyes where this will come, as the 
lining will be cut away here, after we get the outside ready to 
place on it. 

We are ready now to cut the outside. If this is to follow rather 
closely the shape of the lining, we can use the same pattern for 
cutting. However, if it is to be very different, we must cut a 
new pattern, always leaving the shoulder and armhole the same 
as the lining. Pin the pattern to your bust form and shape the 
front or back so that it looks just as you wish it to look in the 
finished waist. In making this pattern for the outside, all fullness 
of every kind must be put in the paper pattern. 

When the pattern for the outside has been prepared, spread 
the goods out on the table and lay all the pieces of the pattern 
on, being careful to have the true waist line on the straight of the 
goods crosswise. Sometimes, however, small checks and plaids 
are cut on the bias. In this case the true waist line should be 
on a true bias of the goods. In cutting the outside back the 
form pieces are not used. The back is cut all in one piece, if 
the waist opens in front, if not, then it is cut in two pieces. It 
is best to pin all the pieces of the back pattern, which are 
used to cut the lining, together just as you sewed them for the 
lining, and use this for a pattern for cutting the outside back. 
Cut the goods from the wrong side, and before lifting the pattern 
mark all seams with tailor's chalk. If two pieces are cut at 
once, follow the lines made on one side with pins. Turn over 
and follow the pins with the chalk. Run a thread in each piece 
marking the true waist line before taking up the pattern. When 



PRACTICAL SEWING AND DRESSMAKING 8l 

the outside is all cut, pin the under arm seams together, beginning 
with the true waist line, and baste. Do the same with the shoul- 
der seams. These are all the seams we have in the outside. 
These seams should be just like the lining, as, if we made any 
changes in fitting the lining we should have made the same in the 
outside pattern. We can therefore stitch these seams. Trim 
the seams to about 3^ inch and overcast each side. Press open 
on the pressing cushion. The under arm seams should be clipped 
above and below the waist line. 

Now place the lining on the bust form and fill out with soft 
paper wherever it is larger than the form. Place the outside 
on it. Pin the shoulder seams in the outside to the shoulder 
seams of the lining, and the under arm seams at the armhole to 
the under arm seam of the lining. Pin securely all about the 
armhole, being sure that the outside is smooth. If the outside 
is cut kimono, it will not fasten anywhere to the lining, except 
at the bottom of the waist. Of course all waists fasten to the 
lining where the collar sews on or at the bottom of a fancy yoke. 
When the outside is kimono it should be left to blouse a little 
under the arms to give freedom in raising the arms. 

Arrange fullness in the outside just as you wish it to be when 
finished. Pin it, leaving the basting until you have had another 
fitting. Put all trimming in place while it is on the form. 

A very good way when a fancy waist is being made is to cut 
the pattern out of old cloth. Pin it to the lining on the bust form 
and keep changing it a little here and there until it looks just 
as you wish it to when finished. Use this cloth as a pattern 
to cut from the goods. With a little practice you will get so 
you can cut any waist you see. If the dress is being made of 
thin wash goods, of course it will not have a lining, unless your 
patron wishes one. Some people wish their summer gowns made 
on a lining. For this purpose we use a thin lining lawn. When 
no lining is used it is nearly always best to use the shirt-waist 
pattern instead of the tight lining pattern. In this case arrange 
all tucks and fullness of every kind in your pattern. Cut from 



PRACTICAL SEWING AND DRESSMAKING 83 

the goods. Stitch up the seams and place on the bust form to 
arrange fullness as it should be when finished. These waists 
must be made with a kind of fullness that can be stitched in, 
such as shirring, tucking, etc. 

Our waist is ready for a second fitting, but we will lay it away 
while we prepare the rest of the gown, before we ask our patron 
to come again. 



LESSON XVI 

DRAFTING THE COAT OR LINING SLEEVE 

Measures used for draft given — 

Arm Length measure 20 inches 

Arm Length to bend of Elbow g}4 inches 

Armhole measure 15 inches 

Elbow measure , 12K inches 

Hand measure 8 inches 

i. Draw line A-B length of Arm measure. 

2. From point A measure on line A-B length of Arm to bend 
of Elbow. Mark this point C. 

3 . At C square a line with line A-B . 

4. From C measure on this line 2 inches. Mark this point D. 

5. Place point D on the chart at D and draw curve through 
A. 

6. Place point D on the chart at D and draw curve through 
B. 

7. From D measure J^ Elbow measure. Mark this point E. 

8. Measure ij^ inches to right of E. Mark this point G. 

9. Measure ij^ inches to left of E. Mark this point F. 

10. Measure J^ inch to right of points F and G. Mark these 
points H and I. 

n. At point B square a line with line A-B. 

12. Measure from B on this line Y2 of Hand measure. Mark 
this point J. 

13. Measure J4 mcn to the right of J. Mark this point K. 

14. At K square a line with line B-K and measure 1 inch 
from K. Mark this point L. 

15. Connect points L and B with a straight line. 



86 PRACTICAL SEWING AND DRESSMAKING 

16. Measure to the left of L i}4 inches. Mark this point 
M. 

17. Connect points H and M with a straight line. 

18. Connect points I and L with a straight line. 

19. Place point F on the chart at G and hold chart so that 
point J falls on line I-L ; draw curve. 

20. Place point F on the chart at F and hold so that point 
J falls on line H-M ; draw curve. This forms the Elbow. 

21. Measure the line G-L and extend the line F-M below M 
so that it is the same length as line G-L. Mark this point N. 

22. Connect N and B with a straight line. 

23. At point A square a line with line A-B. 

24. From A measure on this line 14, the Armhole measure. 
Mark this point 0. 

25. Measure 2 inches to the right of 0. Mark this point 
P. 

26. Measure 2 inches to the left of 0. Mark this point Q. 

27. Extend line A-B above A 2^ inches. Mark this point 
R. 

28. At R square a line with line R-B. 

29. On this line measure from R 1^ inches. Mark this point 
S. 

30. At point Q square a line with line A-P. Mark this point 
T. 

31. At point P square a line with line A-P. Mark this point 
U. 

32. Place point G on the chart at T and hold so that the 
curve just touches line A-P. Draw curve and continue it to 
point A. 

33. Place point G on the chart at S and draw curve through 
A. 

34. Using Q as a center and Q-S as a radius, draw curve 
through points S and U. 

35. Connect points T and F with a straight line. 

36. Connect U and G with a straight line. 



Coit Sleeve 

o v 

Lin in $ Sleeve. 




88 



PRACTICAL SEWING AND DRESSMAKING 



In cutting pattern allow Y2 mcn seams everywhere except on 
inside seam. One inch or more should be allowed here until 
after the sleeve has been fitted. Gather top of sleeve from iYz 
inches from A to U. 



LESSON XVII 

THE ONE-PIECE TIGHT SLEEVE 

To make the one-piece tight sleeve, trace off on another piece 
of paper the upper piece of coat or lining sleeve. 

Lay line T-F of the under piece on line U-G of the upper 
piece and trace the under piece. This makes a sleeve which fits 
exactly like the coat or lining sleeve, but it has no seam at the 
back from the elbow up. It is used for the lining of fancy sleeves 
and often for the outside. Where one wishes to put tucks around 
the arm it will be found useful. It is good for the lining of sleeves 
made of thin material where the seam would not look well. 
It makes a fine lining for the mousquetaire sleeve. 



89 



One fiece Ti$h + Sleeve 




LESSON XVIII 

THE FLOWING SLEEVE 

The flowing sleeve is made from the coat or lining sleeve as 
the one-piece sleeve was. Trace off on another piece of paper 
the upper sleeve. Lay line T-F of the under on line U-G of the 
xipper and trace off the under piece of the sleeve. 

i. Measure up from point B of the upper 4^ inches. Mark 
this point F. 

2. Measure from point N 4 inches. Mark this point E. 

3. Draw a straight line through E and F and extend it 3 
inches beyond F. Mark this point I. 

4. Measure from L on the under piece up 4 inches. Mark this 
point G. 

5. Measure from B up 4^ inches. Mark this point H. 

6. Draw a line through G and H and extend 3 inches beyond 
H. Mark this point J. 

7. Mark the point where these lines cross K. 

8. Place point C on the chart at I and hold chart so that 
curve C-F touches line D-A. Draw curve. 

9. Place point C on the chart at J and hold chart so that 
curve C-F touches line D-A. Draw curve. 

10. Hold curve O-J on the chart so that it touches lines J-K 
and I-K. Draw curve. 

In cutting pattern allow seams everywhere. The flowing 
sleeve is sometimes used in dresses but more often in dressing 
sacks and kimonos. 



91 



FJowin£ £ It ewe 




LESSON XIX 

DRAFTING THE SLEEVE WITH THE TIGHT ELBOW AND LARGE TOP 

Measures used in draft given — 

Arm Length 20 inches 

Arm Length to bend of Elbow g}4 inches 

Armhole measure 15 inches 

Elbow measure 1 2% inches 

Hand measure 8 inches 

i. Draw line A-B length of Arm measure. 

2. From A measure length of Arm to bend of Elbow. Mark 
this point C. 

3. At C square a line with line A-B. 

4. From C on this line measure 2 inches. Mark this point D. 

5. From D measure 3^2 of Elbow measure. Mark this point 
E. 

6. Measure to the left of E i 1 ^ inches. Mark this point F. 

7. Measure to the right of E iJ4 inches. Mark this point G. 

8. Measure to the right of F 34 inch. Mark this point H. 

9. Measure to the right of G 34 inch. Mark this point I. 

10. Square a line at B with line A-B. 

n. On this line measure from B J^ of Hand measure. Mark 
this point J. 

12. To the right of J measure 34 inch. Mark this point K. 

13. At K square a line with line B-K. 

14. Measure on this line from K 1 inch. Mark this point L. 

15. Connect points L and B with a straight line. 

16. Measure on this line from L 1 inch. Mark this point M. 

17. Connect points M and H with a straight line, also points 
L and I. 

93 



94 PRACTICAL SEWING AND DRESSMAKING 

1 8. Place point D on the chart at point D and draw a curve to 
B. 

19. Place point D on the chart at D and draw a curve to A. 

20. Place point F on the chart at F and hold so that point 
J touches line H-M and draw curve. 

21. Place point F on the chart at G and hold so that point J 
just touches line I-L and draw curve. 

22. Measure line G-L and extend line F-M below M to make 
it the same length. Mark this point N. 

23. Connect N and B with a straight line. 

24. At A square aline with line A-B. 

25. From A on this line measure Y2 the Armhole measure. 
Mark this point O. 

26. Measure to the right of 4 times the distance from E to 
G. Mark this point P. 

27. Measure to the left of 2 inches. Mark this point Q. 

28. Extend line A-B above A 2Y2 inches. Mark this point 
R. 

29. At R square a line with line R-B. 

30. On this line measure from R ij^ inches. Mark this 
point S. 

31. Place point G on the chart at S and draw a curve through 
A. 

32. At point Q square a line with line A-P. Mark the point 
T where this line touches the line from S. 

33. At P square a line with line A-P and mark the point U 
where this line touches the line from S. 

34. Connect points F and T with a straight line. 

35. Place point G on the chart at T and hold the chart so 
that the curve touches line A-P ; draw curve and continue to A. 

36. Measure 1 inch to the right of U. Mark this point V. 

37. Place point D on the chart at G and draw curve towards 
V. Extend curve to V. 

38. Find a point on line R-V half way between S and V. 
Mark this point W. 



Sleeve WiihTifhi Elbow 
a i\ J L a. r $ e To p. 




96 PRACTICAL SEWING AND DRESSMAKING 

39. Square a line at W with line R-V and mark point X where 
this line touches A-P. 

40. With X as a center and X-S as a radius, draw curve from 
S to V. 

This completes the draft. If the sleeve is desired larger or 
smaller change the distance from O to P. The draft given, gives 
a medium sized sleeve. 

In cutting pattern allow seams everywhere. 



LESSON XX 



Measures used in draft given — 

Arm Length measure 20 inches 

Arm Length to bend of Elbow g}4 inches 

Armhole measure 15 inches 

Elbow measure 1 2j4 inches 

Hand measure 8 inches 

i. Draw line A-B length of Arm measure. 

2. Measure from A length of Arm to bend of Elbow. Mark 
this point C. 

3. At C square a line with line A-B. 

4. On this line measure from C, 2 inches, Mark this point 
D. 

5. From D measure Y2 the Elbow measure. Mark this point 
E. 

6. Measure to the left of E, ij^ inches. Mark this point F. 

7. Measure to the right of E, 2^ inches. Mark this point G. 

8. Measure to the right of F, 34 inch. Mark this point H. 

9. Measure to the right of G, J4 mcn - Mark this point I. 

10. At B square a line with line A-B. 

n. On this line measure from B, Yi the Hand measure. Mark 
this point J. 

12. Measure to the right of J, 34 inch. Mark this point K. 

13. At K square a line with line B-K. 

14. On this line measure from K, 1 inch. Mark this point L. 

15. Connect L and B with a straight line. 

16. Measure on this line from L, 1 inch. Mark this point M. 

17. Connect points M and H with a straight line, also points 
L and I. 

97 



98 PRACTICAL SEWING AND DRESSMAKING 

1 8. Place point D on the chart at D and draw a curve to 
point B. 

19. Place point D on the chart at D and draw a curve to point 
A. 

20. Place point F on the chart at F and hold chart so that 
point J touches line H-M. Draw curve. 

21. Place point F on the chart at G and hold chart so that 
point J touches line I-L. Draw curve. 

22. Measure line G-L and extend line F-M below M, to make 
it the length of G-L. Mark this point N. 

23. Connect N and B with a straight line. 

24. At A square a line with line A-B. 

25. From A on this line measure 3^2 the Armhole measure. 
Mark this point 0. 

26. Measure to the right of twice the distance from E to G. 
Mark this point P. 

27. Measure to the left of 0, 2 inches. Mark this point Q. 

28. Extend line A-B above A, 2Y2 inches. Mark this point 
R. 

29. At R square a line with line R-B. 

30. On this line measure from R, ij^ inches. Mark this 
point S. 

31. Place point G on the chart at S ; and draw curve through 
A. 

32. At point Q square a line with line A-P. Mark the point 
T ; where this line touches the line from S. 

33. At P square a line with line A-P and mark the point U 
where this line touches the line from S. 

34. Connect points F and T with a straight line. 

35. Place point G on the chart at point T and hold chart so 
that the curve touches line A-P. Draw curve and continue it 
to A. 

36. Measure 1 inch to the right of U. Mark this point V. 

37. Draw a straight line from G to a point half way between 
U and V. 



Le$ OVWuU on Sieeve. 




ioo PRACTICAL SEWING AND DRESSMAKING 

38. Find a point half way between V and G. Mark this 
point W. 

39. Place point C on the chart at G, and hold chart so that 
point L falls on line from G. Draw curve. 

40. Place point D on the chart at V and let curve fall on W. 
Draw curve through W and V. 

41. Find a point on a line R-V half way between S and V. 
Mark this X. 

42. Square a line at X with line R-V, and mark point Y where 
this line touches line A-P. 

43. With Y as a center and S-Y as a radius draw curve from 
S to V. 

Note — To make the sleeve larger or smaller, change the 
distance from E to G, and from to P. The draft given makes 
a medium sized sleeve. 

In cutting pattern allow seams everywhere. 



LESSON XXI 

HOW TO CUT, MAKE, AND FINISH THE SLEEVE 

Trace off on another piece of paper the upper portion of the 
sleeve. Be sure to trace on the line D-G, which marks the 

ELBOW. 

Cut out, allowing seams everywhere except at the hand. One- 
half inch seam should be allowed at the top and outside seam. 
Allow at least i inch or more on the inside seam until after the 
sleeve has been fitted. It is at this seam that the sleeve should be 
changed if it needs any changing. Sometimes you will find people 
with a very fully developed muscle between the shoulder and 
elbow. If this is so the sleeve will nearly always have to be let 
out at this point. Therefore leave seam enough to be able to 
let it out if needed. Now trace off the under portion of the sleeve, 
leaving the same sized seams. Be sure to trace on line D-F. 
Now we are ready to cut the sleeve out of the lining goods. Al- 
ways place the sleeve on the lining with the lines F-T and G-U 
on the straight of the goods lengthwise. Your lining, of course, 
is double fold, so that you will cut both sleeves at the same time. 
Be sure to trace on line D-F before you lift the pattern. 
After all seams have been traced pick up the pattern. Make a 
notch at point U or V, whichever sleeve draft is being used, and 
one about ij^ inches from A. Pin the back seam together first. 
Begin by pinning the elbow line of the upper to the elbow line 
of the under and then pin the entire seam, being very careful 
to follow the tracing on each piece. After this seam is basted, 
pin the elbow lines of the outside seam together and baste in 
the same way as you did the inside seam. Gather the top 
from one notch to the other. The sleeve is ready to be fitted. 
This should be done at the time the waist lining is fitted, while 



102 PRACTICAL SEWING AND DRESSMAKING 

the waist lining is on your patron. Pull up the gathers at the 
top and pin the sleeve to the armhole under the arm. Have your 
patron bend her arm and bring her arm forward at the shoulder 
to be sure the sleeve does not draw at the elbow. If it should 
draw a little, see if the elbow is located just right and that 
you have not pinned it in too far to the waist in the back, at the 
back seam. After the sleeve is thoroughly fitted turn it up at 
the hand to just the right length. Before removing from your 
patron, mark where the front seam comes, on the waist. Re- 
move the waist and sleeve from your patron and you are ready 
to proceed with the outside of the sleeve. 

If your sleeve is to be a plain one with the trimming placed on 
the outside, the outside goods will be cut just like the lining. 
If, however, the outside is to be very different, a pattern must be 
cut for the outside. There are sleeve forms which may be bought, 
like the bust forms. If one is going to work for others it always 
pays to have one of these forms. The best way to learn to cut 
the fancy outside is to take an old piece of cloth. Cut what you 
think will make what you want and keep changing it until you 
get it just right. With a little practice, you can make just what 
you want the first time. Most sleeves conform quite closely to 
the lining, so you will not have much trouble. If there are to 
be tucks in the sleeve they must be put in the goods before it is 
cut out. 

To make the Mousquetaire sleeve. This is the sleeve which 
is fulled on the lining from the shoulder to the hand. For this 
sleeve use the tight lining sleeve. Cut out the lining and sew 
up the elbow seam. Gather the goods on to the lining at the 
inside seam, allowing about once and a half the length of the 
sleeve. Be sure that the outside is the same size as the lining 
crosswise. Sew up the inside seam and tack the fullness to the 
lining all along the outside seam, or where it would be, so that 
it cannot drop down out of place. Be careful to make the 
fastenings so that they do not show. When large sleeves are 
being worn, a very pretty sleeve is made by putting small length- 





CoaT 51eeve 
or 

LiVung Sleeve 




Flowing Sleeve 




Leo Q'MuTTg" 



? 



.sleeve 



104 PRACTICAL SEWING AND DRESSMAKING 

wise tucks from the hand to the elbow, allowing the sleeve to 
puff from the elbow to the shoulder. In cutting this sleeve the 
tucks must be placed in the goods and all the fullness left by the 
tucks must be left in the sleeve. For this sleeve use the one-piece 
lining. After sewing up the outside seam to the elbow, fasten 
the tucks in place on the lining. Baste the goods on the lining. 
Cut out the sleeve and baste up. Gather the outside at the top 
in to the size of the lining, and then gather both the lining and 
outside in to the size of the armhole. A little of the fullness left 
by the tucks may be shoved off at the sides but not enough to 
make it look drawn at the top of the tucks. A bias band or a 
fancy shaped cuff may be placed at the hand or it may be simply 
faced with a bias facing. If you wish a sleeve to be sewed in at 
the armhole without gathers, take the sleeve off at the highest 
part of the top about i inch, and take it in enough at point A 
to make it the exact size of the armhole. The one-piece sleeve 
is the best one to use for this sleeve. 

After the sleeve is all stitched and pressed, lay it away with 
the waist until the skirt and drop skirt are prepared. All that 
is left to do to the sleeve is to face it about the hand with a 
bias facing, of silk if the goods is very heavy; if not, of the goods 
itself. 



LESSON XXII 

DRAFTING THE CIRCULAR SKIRT 

Measures used for draft given — 

Waist measure 25 inches 

Hip measure 42 inches 

Front length of skirt 40 inches 

Side length of skirt 40^ inches 

Back length of skirt 41^ inches 

Take a sheet of paper having a square corner and one straight 
edge large enough for the draft. If a piece large enough is not 
at hand, paste several together. 

1. Use the corner of the paper for a center, and a radius of 
10 inches, and draw a circle. Point A. 

2. With the same center and a radius of 15 inches, draw an- 
other circle. Point C. 

3. Measure from A on circle, Y the Waist measure. Mark this 
point B. 

4. Measure from C on circle, Y2 the Hip measure. Mark this 
point D. 

5. Find a point on circle A-B half way between A and B. 
Mark this point E. 

6. Measure down % of an inch from B. Mark this point 
F. 

7. Place point J on the chart at E, and with curve J-F draw 
curve towards F. Continue curve to F. 

8. Find a point on circle C-D half way between C and D. 
Mark this point G. 

9. Measure down from D ^ of an inch. Mark this point 

H. 

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PRACTICAL SEWING AND DRESSMAKING 107 

10. Place point J on the chart at G and with curve J-F draw 
curve towards H. Continue curve to H. 

1 1 . Measure from A on circle A-F 3^ of Waist measure. Mark 
this point I. 

12. Measure from C on circle C-H, 3^> of Hip measure. Mark 
this point J. 

13. Draw a straight line through I and J and continue down 
the length of the Back skirt measure. This line is the center 
back line. 

14. Measure from A down the edge of the paper, which is 
the front center line of the skirt, the Front length measure of 
the skirt. Point K. 

15. Measure down from I the Back length of skirt. Point L. 

16. Measure from E the Side length of skirt. Point M. 

17. The curve for the bottom of the skirt is found by measur- 
ing down every few inches the length measures of the skirt. 

This skirt draft should never be used for narrow goods. It 
should always be cut from very heavy goods. 

In cutting pattern allow seams down the back and at the 
waist line. 



LESSON XXIII 

DRAFTING THE THREE-GORED CIRCULAR SKIRT 

Measures used in draft given — 

Waist measure 25 inches 

Hip measure 42 inches 

Front Length measure 40 inches 

Side Length measure , 40^ inches 

Back Length measure 41K inches 

Take a sheet of paper having a square corner and one 
straight edge large enough to hold the draft. 

1. Use the corner of the paper for a center and with a radius 
of 10 inches draw a circle. Point A. 

2. With the same center and a radius of 15 inches draw another 
circle. Point C. 

3. Measure from A on circle, J^ of Waist measure. Mark this 
point B. 

4. Measure from C on circle, Y2 of Hip measure. Mark this 
point D. 

5. Find a point on circle A-B half way between A and B. 
Mark this point E. 

6. Measure down % of an inch from B. Mark this point F. 

7. Place point J on the chart at E and with curve J-F draw 
curve towards F. Continue curve to F. 

8. Find a point on circle C-D half way between C and D and 
mark this point G. 

9. Measure down from D % of an inch. Mark this point 
H. 

10. Place point J on the chart at G and with curve J-F draw 

curve towards H. Continue curve to H. 

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PRACTICAL SEWING AND DRESSMAKING in 

ii. Measure from A on circle A-F, J^ of Waist measure. 
Mark this point I. 

12. Measure from C on circle C-H, J^ of Hip measure. Mark 
this point J. 

13. Draw a straight line through I- J and continue down the 
length of the Back skirt measure. This line is the center back 
line. 

14. Measure from A down the edge of the paper, which is 
the front center line of the skirt, the Front skirt length. Point 
K. 

15. Measure down from I the back length of skirt. Point 
L. 

16. On circle A-F measure 1 inch to the left of point E. Mark 
this point M. 

17. On circle C-H measure 1 inch to the left of G. Mark 
this point N. 

18. Draw a line through M and N and continue down the 
length of Side skirt measure. Mark this point O. 

19. Measure to the right and left of on the bottom curve 
of skirt, 9 inches. Mark these points P and Q. 

20. Connect N and P, and N and Q with straight lines. 

21. A-K-M-P is the front gore. M-Q-I-L is the back gore. 
In cutting out the pattern allow seams everywhere. 

Note — The three-gored circular skirt draft is the same as the 
full circular skirt, except that a half -yard is taken out at the 
sides. This gives less fullness, and the seam down the side keeps 
the skirt from sagging. 



LESSON XXIV 

DRAFTING THE SEVEN-GORED SKIRT 

Measures used in this draft — 

Waist measure . 25 inches 

Elip measure 42 inches 

Front length of skirt 40 inches 

Side length of skirt 40^ inches 

Back length of skirt 41^ inches 

Measure about bottom 3 yards 

Take a piece of paper having one square corner and a straight 
edge, large enough to hold the draft. 

1. A represents the corner of the paper. 

2. With A as a center and a radius of 10 inches, draw a circle 
B-D, beginning at the edge of the paper, A-P. 

3. With A as a center and a radius of 15 inches, draw another 
circle, C-E. 

4. From C on circle C-E, measure 1-7 of one half the Hip 
measure. Mark this point F. 

5. From point C on circle C-E measure ij^ inches more than 
from C to F. Mark this point G. 

6. Measure from C to F and C to G. Subtract this amount 
from Y2 the Hip measure. 

7. Use what is left of the Hip measure for the distance from 
C to H and C to I, making C to H Y% inch less than C to I. 

8. From B on circle B-D measure 1 inch less than from C to F. 
Mark this point K. 

9. From B on circle B-D measure % inch more than from B 
to K. Mark this point L. 

10. Measure from B to K and B to L and subtract this sum 
from Y2 the Waist measure. 

"3 



114 PRACTICAL SEWING AND DRESSMAKING 

1 1 . Use what is left of the Waist measure for the distance from 
B to M and B to N, making B to M j^ inch less than B to N. 

12. Place point C on the chart at point F and draw curve 
through K. 

13. Place point D on the chart at G and draw curve through 
L. 

14. Place point D on the chart at H and draw curve through 
M. 

15. Place point D on the chart at I and draw curve through 
N. 

16. To form the inverted plait — Measure on a straight line 
from G, touching the circle C-E, 4 inches. Mark this point J. 

17. From L measure on a straight line touching the circle 
B-D, 33^2 inches. Mark this point 0. 

18. Measure up from 0, % of an inch. Mark this point 00. 

19. Place point F on the chart at 00 and draw curve through 
L. 

20. Connect 00 and J with a straight line. 

21. To form the bottom of the gores — Measure down from 
B on the edge of the paper the Front length of skirt. Mark 
this point P. 

22. With A as a center and A-P as a radius, draw a circle, 
beginning at the edge of the paper. Circle P-V. 

23. From P on circle P-V measure 3^ inches more than from 
C to F. Mark this point Q. 

24. Decide how wide you wish your skirt about the bottom. 
This will be determined by the style being worn. 

25. Subtract from 3^ the bottom measure the distance from 
P toQ. 

26. Divide what is left of the bottom measure into three equal 
parts. Use one of these parts as a measure for the three other 
gores. 

27. Make the distance from P to R 2 inches less than this 
1-3 measure. 

28. Now find out how much of the J^ bottom measure you 



Seveu Qc-re3 Skirt 



£ £<7<?e c} F±per> 




Ii6 PRACTICAL SEWING AND DRESSMAKING 

have used, by measuring from P to Q and from P to R. Subtract 
this sum from Y2 the bottom measure. - 

29. Divide what is left into two equal parts. Use this measure 
for the two side gores, making P to S 2 inches less than P to T. 

30. Measure from point R, 10 inches, point U, for the bottom 
of inverted plait. 

31. Connect with straight lines points F and Q, G and R, 
H and S, I and T, J and U. 

32. To find the true bottom curve of each gore, measure down 
from waist curve, on each line, the skirt lengths. 

33. The front gore is represented by B-P-K-Q. 

34. The back gore is represented by B-P-L-R, with inverted 
plait L-R-O-U. 

35. Front Side Gore is represented by B-P-M-S. 

36. Back Side Gore is represented by B-P-N-T. 

37. To lay the inverted plait, place line L-R over on line O-U. 
In putting the skirt together the straight side of each gore 

B-P will come against the bias side of the gore next to it. 
In cutting the pattern allow seams everywhere. 



LESSON XXV 

DRAFTING THE NINE -GORED SKIRT 

Measures used for draft given — 

Waist measure 25 inches 

Hip measure 42 inches 

Front Length measure 40 inches 

Side Length measure 40^ inches 

Back Length measure 4i>£ inches 

Measure about bottom 3 yards 

Take a piece of paper having a square corner and one straight 
side. 

1. A represents the corner. 

2. With A as a center and a radius of 10 inches, draw a 
circle, B-D. 

3. With A as a center and 15 inches as a radius, draw a circle, 
C-E. 

4. From C on circle C-E measure 1-9 of half the Hip measure. 
Mark this point F. 

5. From B on circle B-D measure % inch less than from C to 
F. Mark this point I. 

6. Measure down from B the skirt length measure. Mark this 
point M. 

7. From M, measure 3^ inches more than from C to F. 
Mark this point N. 

8. Connect I and F, and F and N with straight lines. This 
forms the front gore. 

9. From Yi the Hip measure subtract the distance from C to 
F. 

10. Divide what is left into 4 equal parts. This gives the 

117 



MiNe Core <3 S Jrjv f. 




M W 



PRACTICAL SEWING AND DRESSMAKING 1 19 

Hip measure for each of the other gores, or the distance from C 
to G. 

n. Subtract from J^ the Waist measure the distance from B 
to I. 

12. Divide what is left into 4 equal parts. This gives the 
measure for the waist line of all the other gores, or distance from 
B to J. 

13. Subtract from Y2 the bottom measure the distance from 
M toN. 

14. Divide what is left into 4 equal parts. This gives the 
measure for the bottom of all the gores, or the distance from M 
to 0. 

15. After cutting the front gore, B-M-I-N, cut 6 gores like 
the gore represented by B-M-J-O. 

16. To make the back gores — Add the inverted plait. 

17. Measure from G on a straight line touching curve C-H, 
3 3/2 inches. Mark this point H. 

18. Measure from J on a straight line touching curve C-E, 
3^ inches. Mark this point K. 

19. Measure on a straight line from 0, 10 inches. Mark this 
point P. 

20. Measure up from K, ^2 inch. Mark this point L. Place 
point F on the chart at L, and draw curve through J. 

21 Connect L and H, and H and P with straight lines. 

22. B-M-L-P represents the back gore with inverted plait. 
Cut two of these gores. You will have 9 gores in all. 

Notch each gore as it is cut out, to show just where each one 
goes. Always put the straight side B-M against the bias side 
of the next gore. Get the true bottom curve as you did the seven- 
gored skirt. To lay inverted plait, place line J-0 on line L-P. 

In cutting pattern allow seams everywhere. 



LESSON XXVI 

DRAFTING THE FIFTEEN-GORED SKIRT 

Measures used for draft given — 

Waist measure 25 inches 

Hip measure 42 inches 

Front Length measure 40 inches 

Side Length measure 4o>£ inches 

Back Length measure 41^ inches 

Measure about bottom 3 yards 

Take a piece of paper having a square corner and one straight 
edge. 

1. A represents the corner. 

2. With A as a center and a radius of 10 inches, draw a circle, 
beginning at the straight edge of the paper (B-C). 

3. With the same center and a radius of 15 inches, draw 
another circle (D-E). 

4. From D on circle D-E measure 1-15 of the Hip measure. 
Mark this point F. 

5. From B on circle B-C measure 1-15 of the Waist measure. 
Mark this point G. 

6. From B on the edge of the paper measure down the Front 
skirt length. Mark this point H. 

7. From H measure 2 inches more than from D to F. Mark 
this point I. 

8. Place point C on the chart at F and draw curve through G. 

9. Connect F and I with a straight line. This forms the 
front gore. 

10. Subtract from J^ the Hip measure, the distance from D 
to F. 



Fifteen Gor>ei S'kivt. 




PRACTICAL SEWING AND DRESSMAKING 



"3 



11. Divide what is left into 7 equal parts. 

12. Measure from D on circle D-E one of these parts. Mark 
this point J. 

13. Subtract from % the- Waist measure the distance from 
B to G. 

14. Divide what is left into 7 equal parts. 

15. Measure from B on circle B-C one of these parts. Mark 
this point K. 

16. Place point D on the chart at J and draw curve through 
K. 

17. Connect J and L with a straight line. This finishes the 
side gore. Twelve of these should be cut. 

18. To form the back gore — Add to the side gore the inverted 
plait. 

19. Measure on a straight line from K touching the curve, 
2Y2 inches. Mark this point M. 

20. Measure up from M Y% inch. Mark this point N. 

21. Measure from J on a straight line touching curve, 3 
inches. Mark this point 0. 

22. Measure from L, 8 inches. Mark this point P. 

23. Connect N-0 and P with a straight line. 
The entire back gore is represented by B-H-N-P. 
The side gores by B-H-K-L. 

The front gore by B-H-G-I. 

To lay the inverted plait, lay line L-K over on line N-P. 

In cutting pattern allow all seams. 



LESSON XXVII 

THE FULL PLAITED SKIRT, MADE FROM THE FIFTEEN-GORED DRAFT 

For this skirt make the bottom measure 2^2 yards, when you 
make your draft. 

1. Trace off on another piece of paper the front gore. 

2. Measure out 1 inch from G. 

3. Measure out ij^ inches from F. 

4. Measure out 2^ inches from I. 

5. Connect these two points with straight lines, and cut on 
this line. This amount added to the gore is for the plait. 

6. Turn the plait under, turning on line G-F-I. 

7. Trace off the side gore. 

8. Measure out from B, 1 inch. 

9. Measure out from D, ij^ inches. 

10. Measure out from H, 2^ inches. 

11. Connect these points with straight lines. 

This amount added is for a lap to run under the plait of the 
front gore. 

12. Measure out from K, 1 inch. 

13. Measure out from J, ij^t inches. 

14. Measure out from L, 2^ inches. 

This forms the plait to be turned under on the side gore. 
This forms the entire skirt except the two back gores. 

15. To form the back gores — Trace off the back gore, hav- 
ing added the inverted plait. 

16. Measure out from B, 1 inch. 

17. Measure out from D, ij^ inches. 

18. Measure out from H, 2Y2 inches. 

19. Connect these points with straight lines. This forms 

125 



Full PliiUJ Skirt 



Fl} f ec>\ (Pove. 




PRACTICAL SEWING AND DRESSMAKING 127 

the lap to run under the plait of the gore next to the back. Lay 
the inverted plait by placing line K-J-L over on N-O-P. 

Cut the same number of gores of each kind as directed in the 
plain fifteen-gored skirt. 

In cutting from the goods, the line marked B-H on the illus- 
tration must be marked with a thread before the pattern is 
rai'sed from the goods. After each plait has been turned in, 
baste it fiat to the next gore. Have the edge of the plait follow 
the line B-H each time. Stitch on the edge of each plait from 
the waist down about 10 inches. Turn the skirt wrong side out 
and stitch the raw edge of the plaits to the raw edge of the laps 
in a flat seam about ^2 mc ^ wide. Before removing the bastings 
which hold the plaits in place, give each plait a dead press by 
placing a wet cloth on it and pressing until dry. Use a rather 
heavy iron. The skirt should be placed on a band at the waist 
and hung about the bottom, before removing the bastings. After 
the skirt is hung even about the bottom, run a thread where it 
is to turn up and then remove the bastings. Turn up the hem 
and stitch it in. Press the hem and then press the plaits back 
in where they were pressed out in pressing the hem. 



LESSON XXVIII 

TO CUT, MAKE AND FINISH THE DROP SKIRT AND OUTSIDE SKIRT 

First we will take up the drop skirt. The amount of material 
for the drop skirt must depend on the style of the outside skirt. 
If the skirts worn are very scant the drop skirt must be made to 
correspond. If very full, it must be made with a full ruffle or 
plaiting. Five and one half yards of cotton lining or 10 yards 
of taffeta will make a full drop skirt. 

You have of course decided whether your outside skirt is to 
be scant or full and we take it for granted that you have drafted 
your pattern. 

You should do all the drafting before you begin the gown, 
waist, sleeve and skirt. 

Use the draft you have made for the skirt. Trace off each 
gore on another piece of paper and allow seams everywhere. 
Of course a seam will not be allowed down the front of the draft, 
as only Y2 the front is drafted. Allow J^ inch seam at the waist 
line and % inch on all sides of the gores. The pattern should be 
made just the length the skirt is to be when finished. In using 
the seven-gored skirt, if the skirts worn are a little full, slant 
the lines from the hips down out a little. If they are worn very 
tight, draw the lines just a little slanting. Notch each gore as it 
is cut from the paper, beginning with the front, which has one 
notch. The side of the second gore which comes next to the 
front has one notch, and the other side of this gore two notches. 
So on until all the gores are notched. 

Turn each gore up 10 inches from the bottom and pin. Use 
this for a pattern for the drop skirt. Spread the lining out on 
the table. It will be double fold, if cotton. Lay the middle of the 
front gore on the lengthwise fold of the goods and arrange the 

129 



130 PRACTICAL SEWING AND DRESSMAKING 

other gores to the best advantage to save cloth. The goods being 
plain, the gores may be turned either way up or down. Cut out, 
allowing a good seam at the bottom, as we are to sew our ruffle 
or plaiting to it. Notch each gore to correspond to those in the 
pattern. Baste all the seams and stitch. 

From the other end of the goods, cut enough strips nj^ inches 
wide, on a true bias, to make, when sewed together end to end, 
once and a half the width of the skirt around the bottom. Sew 
the seams on. the machine. Turn and baste a hem ij^ inches 
wide along one side. Gather along the other side about J^ mcn 
from the edge. Before gathering, divide into quarters and gather 
each quarter on a separate thread. Divide the bottom of the 
skirt into four parts, making the two front parts two inches 
more than the back parts. This will bring the ruffle a little 
fuller in the back than in front. Sew the ruffle to the skirt, 
having the seam come on the wrong side. Have the seam on the 
skirt as wide again as that on the ruffle. After the skirt has been 
tried on, turn the wide part of the seam over the narrow part, 
turning in, and stitch. This covers all the raw edge where 
the ruffle is put on. A narrow ruffle may be put on the wide 
one at the bottom if one wishes. If a plaiting is preferred in 
place of the ruffle, enough strips should be cut on the straight 
of the goods, the same width as those for the ruffle, to make 3 
times the width of the skirt. 

Sew a straight band of the goods about ij^ inches wide to the 
top of the skirt, having the band about 2 inches longer than the 
waist measure. Pin the middle of the band to the middle of 
the front of the skirt, having the band on the right side of the 
skirt. Turn in both ends of the band 1 inch and pin along the 
top of the skirt. You will find that the skirt is quite a bit longer 
than the band. What is left of the skirt may be gathered in, 
or laid in a large plait, having the edge of the plait come just 
to the end of the band. 

The back seam of the skirt should be left open about 12 inches 
from the top. This opening should be hemmed on each side 



PRACTICAL SEWING AND DRESSMAKING 131 

with a narrow hem. A silk drop skirt is cut the same except 
that there is no fold to cut the front gore on. Fold the goods 
together to cut the front, and proceed as in the cotton skirt. 

The Outside Skirt — Turn the bottom of the pattern down 
again, where you turned it up to use it for the drop skirt. This 
leaves the pattern just the length the finished skirt is to be. We 
will make a perfectly plain skirt. Spread the goods on the table, 
if possible wrong side up. Never cut the front gore of the outside 
skirt on the fold that is in the goods, if it is double-fold goods. 
This used always to be done, but it is no longer considered proper. 
Make a fresh fold just far enough from the edge of the goods 
to cut the gore. After this gore is cut, lay all others on, to the 
best advantage possible. Never lay the front side of the gores 
exactly on the straight of the goods lengthwise. Always lay 
the top of the gore back at least ij^ inches. Always allow 
about 4 inches at the bottom of each gore for hem. If you are 
short of goods only allow two inches, and then the skirt may be 
faced. It is never best to cut a skirt the exact length it is to be, 
for it always takes up in making. Before raising the pattern 
from the goods, turn back all seams on the pattern and mark on 
the goods with tailor's chalk. Also mark where the bottom of 
the pattern comes on each gore. Be sure to notch each gore to 
correspond with the pattern. Pin the front gore to the second 
ones, one at a time, and baste. Pin every few inches and be 
careful not to stretch either side. When all the seams have been 
basted in this way, turn the skirt up about the bottom, on the 
wrong side, on the line you made with the chalk. The chalk 
rubs off easily so it is best to trace on the line with thread before 
handling the skirt. Pin every few inches and high enough up 
so that the hem will not drop down. Run a strong thread along 
the waist line to keep it from stretching when it is tried on. 

We are ready now for the first fitting. When the patron comes, 
if the waist and skirt are to be separate, put the skirt on first, 
over the drop skirt. Examine very carefully to see if it is a 
perfect fit about the hips and waist and notice whether the seams 



132 PRACTICAL SEWING AND DRESSMAKING 

all look straight. Do not try to hang the skirt around the bottom 
until the seams are stitched and pressed. While the skirt is on 
the patron lay the inverted plait in the back, if there is to be 
one. Nowadays there are so many different styles of skirts, 
that you will have to use your ingenuity. Some open on the 
side, some at the side of the back and some at the side of 
the front. All we can do is to tell you how to make the plain 
skirt. After the skirt is thoroughly fitted, put on the waist. 
Be sure the outside looks just as it should when finished. Make 
any changes necessary. Pin the sleeve into the armhole, taking 
care that the inside seam comes just where it should to hang right. 
Cut a collar just as you were taught to cut the neck band for 
the shirt waist, only wider, of whatever material the collar is 
to be and i inch wider than when finished. Pin it in place on 
the patron, shape the top and get the exact length. Remove the 
gown carefully so as not to lose any pins, and it is ready to finish. 
There should be one more fitting, after the gown is all finished 
except the hem in the bottom. If you do this your work will 
never have to be brought back for changes. Finish up the drop 
skirt, which, if it needs no changes, is all finished but sewing 
on the band. Turn down the edge of the band, which is not 
basted, and baste on the wrong side just opposite the first 
basting. Stitch on the right side. This will make a band about 
Y2 inch wide at the top of the skirt. Sew a good large hook and 
eye on the band and press the entire skirt. This finishes the 
drop skirt. Finish up the waist according to the style it is to 
be. If a separate waist is worn outside the skirt, the bottom of 
the waist should be finished with a bias band about i^ inches 
wide. Stitch the band on the right side, turn up on the wrong 
side and hem. Stitch it the first time just a seam below the ends 
of the bones, so that when it is finished the bones will come 
clear to the bottom of the waist. Finish all other parts neatly 
and fasten all trimmings where they should be. Baste in the 
sleeves and stitch. Bind the armholes with a bias band wide 
enough to cover the seam. Finish the sleeves at the bottom 



PRACTICAL SEWING AND DRESSMAKING 133 

with a hem or facing. Place No. 1 hooks and Peet or thread 
loops, whichever seem best, wherever necessary. 

After the waist is all finished we must finish the skirt. Stitch 
all seams. If the skirt has been fastened to the waist, this is 
hard to do, but it can be accomplished. Turn the skirt wrong 
side out. Cut a stitch at the waist line near the seam and fasten 
with a pin so that it cannot ravel but so you can get at the seam. 
Stitch all seams. Trim off to about ^2 inch, and overcast. Press 
open. If the skirt is separate from the waist we must put a 
band on at the waist line, just as we did on the drop skirt. A 
waist band may be bought ready made or one may be made as 
we did for the drop skirt. It is best if you are sewing for others 
to buy the ready made band. Before putting on this band, 
the placket should be finished. Put a facing about ij^ inches 
wide down the left side of the placket, made of goods like the 
skirt, and perfectly straight of the goods lengthwise. Stitch 
on the right side, turn on the wrong side and hem. To the other 
side of the placket, sew a straight piece of the goods, 4 inches 
wide, which has been folded together lengthwise. Sew one edge 
to the unfinished side of the placket, having the piece on the 
right side of the skirt. Turn in the other edge, baste along the 
stitching just made and stitch again on the right side. Be sure 
to catch the last basting. This will form a flap 2 inches wide to 
run under the hem on the other side of the placket. You laid 
your inverted plait so that the edge of the plait came just to 
the edge of the placket. Stitch each plait in place on the machine 
about x /i inch back from the edge. Place hooks on the hem side 
and Peet eyes on the flap. Now sew the band to the top of 
the skirt, and it is finished, all but the hem in the bottom. If 
the skirt is fastened to the waist the placket is finished in the 
same way. 

The skirt we have given is a perfectly plain skirt. If a fancy 
one is to be made, the pattern must be prepared before it is 
cut from the goods. If you wish a skirt with a circular flounce, 
pin all the gores together and cut a piece from the bottom of 



134 PRACTICAL SEWING AND DRESSMAKING 

the skirt just the width you wish your flounce. Slash this piece 
up from the bottom every few inches. Spread each cut apart 
a little and paste a piece of paper underneath, to hold them apart. 
These slashes must extend almost to the top of the piece. When 
all these slashes, have been spread apart you will have your cir- 
cular flounce. Use the top of the pattern for the pattern of the 
skirt, allowing a little on the bottom to run under the flounce 
until it is properly hung. Allow a hem on the bottom of the 
flounce and a seam at the top. Turn in the top and lay it flat 
on the skirt. Stitch on the outside as near the edge as possible. 
If you wish a fancy-shaped yoke in the skirt, pin the seams of 
the skirt together at the hips and waist line and cut a yoke any 
shape you wish. Use the lower part of the pattern to cut the 
skirt by. Turn in the lower edge of the yoke. Place the skirt 
underneath and stitch as near the edge as possible. If a skirt 
is desired with set-in plaits half way up on some of the gores, 
decide how far up you wish them to come. Cut these gores 
off where you wish the top of the plaits to come. Allow a hem 
on these gores about 2 inches wide. Lay the plaits in a piece 
of paper, and pin them to the gore just where you want them. 
The top of the plaits must extend up under the hem far enough 
to catch when the hem is stitched in. Now cut the gore the same 
shape it was before. This gives you an exact pattern for the 
gore with the plaits set in. Whenever any plaits are put in a 
skirt, always keep them securely basted in until the skirt is 
finished. 

You will soon learn to cut any kind of a skirt you wish. Al- 
ways begin with the plain foundation and work out your pattern 
from that. 



LESSON XXIX 

WOMEN'S MUSLIN UNDERWEAR — PETTICOATS 

For the petticoat to be placed on a band, use the draft given 
for the seven-gored skirt. Pin the front gore to the second, and 
cut together as one gore. This will make a wide front gore. 
The dart at the top where the front gore rounds in to the waist 
should be put in. Cut the back side gore just as it is. Cut the 
back gore without the inverted plait. Add 3 inches to the back 
seam at the top but not at the bottom. This will straighten the 
back seam and leave a few gathers at the waist in the back. Make 
the skirt a little less around the bottom than you would make an 
outside skirt. If very full dress skirts are being worn, a 3 -yard 
skirt will be found a good width for a petticoat. The width must 
depend on the dress skirts being worn. Cut the skirt as much 
shorter than it is to be as the width of embroidery edge, lace or 
ruffle of the goods you wish to put on the bottom. This should 
be about 3 inches. Sew this ruffle (which should not be very 
full, less than once and a half the width of the skirt) to the 
bottom of the skirt, having the seam on the inside. Before 
stitching the ruffle on, place a straight band 2^ inches wide so 
that the edge comes just even with the edge of the ruffle where 
it is to be stitched on. Turn this band up on the skirt, having 
turned in the raw edge, and stitch in place. This covers the 
seam and forms the hem of the skirt. 

Make a flounce from 8 to 1 2 inches wide of embroidery, or 
of muslin with embroidery or lace sewed on the edge. This 
flounce should measure once and a half the width of the skirt. 
Put the flounce on the bottom of the skirt, so that the lower edge 
of the flounce comes just even with the lower edge of the narrow 
ruffle which forms the bottom of the skirt. Place a narrow 

135 



136 PRACTICAL SEWING AND DRESSMAKING 

bias band about 3-8 of an inch wide, after both edges are turned 
in, over the seam where the flounce is sewed to the skirt. Stitch 
on both edges of this band very near the edge. 

Leave the back seam of the skirt open for about 12 inches from 
the top. Hem the right side of this opening with a hem Y% inch 
wide and the left side with a narrow hem. Lap the right side 
over on the left at the bottom of the opening and stitch across 
on the machine so that it cannot tear down. Now gather the 
the skirt from the back side seam to the opening. Take a straight 
piece of muslin 2 inches wide, lengthwise of the goods, and 2 
inches longer than the waist measure. Turn in each end 1 inch 
and turn in the raw edges. Fold together lengthwise so that 
the edges are just even. Sew to the top of the skirt, having one 
edge of the band on the right side of the skirt and the other on 
the wrong side. Stitch into place and work a buttonhole in the 
right hand end of the band and place a button on the left hand 
end. This finishes the skirt. 

The Petticoat with a Yoke. — Cut a yoke of the muslin, 
according to the directions for cutting yokes in LESSON 28, 
having m ade a pattern first. Make the yoke the same width from 
the waist line all the way around. Use the same foundation 
pattern you used for the petticoat just given, but add 6 inches 
at the back where the skirt is to sew on the yoke. This wilt 
make the back seam about straight, as we add nothing at the 
bottom. Of course the skirt will be cut as much shorter as the 
yoke is deep, this amount being taken off at the top and not 
at the bottom of the skirt. Gather the top of the skirt from back 
side seam to placket and sew to the bottom of the yoke, having 
the seam on the inside. Cover the seam with a narrow bias 
band. For this skirt the opening in the back must be faced in- 
stead of hemmed. Face with a straight piece of goods about 
i}/2 inches wide. Lay one side over on the other at the bottom 
and stitch across as in the other skirt. This opening should be 
12 inches long. Instead of the straight band at the waist line, 
stitch a bias band about 1 inch wide to the yoke at the waist 



Sevew Gc-red S1<i^t~ 



~LL s e 3 }-o> a TeH i Colt, 




138 PRACTICAL SEWING AND DRESSMAKING 

line, having the band on the right side of the skirt. Turn the 
band over on the wrong side. Turn in the raw edge and stitch 
again, as near the edge as possible. Stitch again near the top 
edge of the skirt. Work a buttonhole and sew on a button near 
the top of the yoke. Finish the skirt at the bottom the same as 
the one given before. 



LESSON XXX 

THE NIGHT - GOWN 

For the night-gown the shirt-waist draft is used. After 
deciding how deep the yoke is to be, trace off the pattern on a 
piece of paper, using the neck, shoulder and as much of the arm- 
hole as needed. For the skirt of the night-gown use the rest of 
the armhole which was not used in the yoke. For the under 
arm seam draw slanting lines from point T so that the skirt 
will be about 2 1-8 or 2% yards around the bottom. Allow a 
two-inch hem at the bottom of the gown, and at the front, where 
the skirt gathers on the yoke, 4 inches for gathers and 3 inches 
at the back. Gather the skirt to the yoke, having the seam on the 
right side, and cover the seam with finishing braid, which can be 
bought at any dry goods store. The yoke may be made any 
depth, and as fancy as one wishes, using tucks, lace or embroidery. 
A very pretty gown may be made by using all-over embroidery 
for the yoke. The yoke may be buttoned down the front from 
the neck, or it may be cut away, leaving a V-shaped opening 
in front. There should be no seam down the front or back of 
the gown. If the goods is not wide enough to cut it, put gores 
on at the sides to make it wide enough. Open the skirt of the 
gown from the yoke down the front about 18 inches. Put 
hem % of an inch wide down the right side and a narrow hem 
down the left side of the opening. At the lower end lay the 
right side over on the left and stitch across to keep it from tearing 
down. For the sleeve use the shirt-waist draft. Gather the 
bottom into a band, or use a narrow band and sew a ruffle of 
lace or embroidery to the lower edge. The sleeve may be cut 
off short, the lower edge trimmed and left to hang loose. 



139 



(Vi£H$owh /Vldc/e From. 




LESSON XXXI 

THE CHEMISE 

For the chemise the shirt-waist draft may also be used. Trace 
off on another piece of paper the neck, shoulder and armhole 
of the shirt-waist front. After this pattern has been made, trace 
with the tracing-wheel a circle extending from about 4 inches 
from the neck, on the front line, to a point about 2 inches from 
the armhole on the shoulder. Cut on this line and use the lower 
part for the pattern of the chemise. Add 5 inches to the front 
of the pattern and draw a line from T 30 inches long, slanting 
out enough at the bottom to make the skirt measure 3^ yard 
from the front line to the line just drawn. Make the front line 
long enough to correspond with the under arm line. For the 
back, trace off the neck, shoulder and armhole as you did for 
the front. Draw a circle from a point 2 inches from the arm- 
hole on the shoulder seam to a point 5 inches from the neck on 
the back line. Cut on this line and use the lower part of the 
pattern for the chemise. Add 5 inches to the back of the pattern 
and draw a line from T 30 inches long, slanting out enough to 
make the skirt measure 3^2 yard from the middle back seam to 
the line just drawn. This makes the bottom of the finished 
garment measure 2 yards. The line down the back should slant 
out 2 or 3 inches, as shown in the drawing. To cut from the 
goods, lay the middle of the front and the middle of the back 
on the fold of the goods lengthwise. Cut a band \ x /i inches wide, 
the same circle as the neck of the chemise, leaving off the amount 
added for gathers. Join the front and back bands at the shoul- 
ders. Make this band double of the goods. Stitch the two pieces 
together at the upper edge and turn. Turn in both edges at the 
lower edge of the band about Y /i inch. Gather the chemise be- 

141 





cu 




H= 




-+- 


V 


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to 


<o- 


H 


■-C 




144 PRACTICAL SEWING AND DRESSMAKING 

tween points X and Y into this band, placing one edge on the 
right and one on the wrong side. Stitch' in place, as near the 
edge as possible. Face the armhole with a bias facing cut i 
inch wide. Sew this facing to the garment on the right side. 
Turn back on the wrong side and after turning in the raw edge 
stitch in place, stitching as near the edge as possible. Sew about 
the neck and armholes a narrow lace, fulled on. These chemise 
may be made very fancy, if one wishes, by putting in little yokes 
of insertion or embroidery. 

The Chemise without Gathers. — Another way these gar- 
ments are often made is without any gathers at the neck To 
cut one this way, simply do not add the 5 inches to the front and 
back, but draw the front and back lines slanting out 5 inches 
at the bottom. (See 111.) This will take out the fullness at the 
yoke but will not narrow up the skirt. The chemise made this 
way is often embroidered in scallops about the neck and arm- 
holes. 



LESSON XXXII 

women's corset covers 

For the tight-fitting corset cover, use the tight waist draft 
without back forms. Cut the pattern from paper, allowing seams 
everywhere. Cut the neck out as low as desired. In making 
this corset cover, sew up the seams on the wrong side, and after 
it has been fitted trim off one side of the seam, leaving it about 
34 inch wide. Turn in the edge of the other side of the seam and 
baste down flat over the trimmed edge. (Fell seam.) Stitch as 
near the edge as possible. The seams should all be turned to- 
wards the back. A hem iJ4 inches wide should be made down 
each side of the front. Turn down this hem, having turned in 
the raw edge, and stitch. Sew buttons on the left hand hem and 
work buttonholes on the right hem. Trim the neck and armholes 
with lace or embroidery. It makes the corset cover stronger to 
face the armholes and neck with a narrow bias binding, instead 
of just hemming them with a narrow hem. 

Corset Cover Fulled at Neck and Waist Line. — Use the 
shirt-waist draft. Cut out the neck as much as desired. Add 
3 inches on the front and nothing on the back. Do not add any- 
thing to the bottom of the waist. Hem the neck and armholes 
with a narrow hem and sew on beading and lace edge. Run a 
ribbon through the beading. Gather the waist in at the bottom 
of the waist, beginning at about 5 inches from the under arm 
seam on the front and about 2 inches from this seam on the 
back. Sew to the bottom of the waist a circular piece of muslin. 
To draft this piece, take a radius of 12 inches and draw a part 
of a circle just Y2 of the waist measure. Measure from this circle 
3 inches. Draw another arc. Slant the end out just a little. 
Cut from the cloth, laying the straight end on the fold of the 

145 



C^sef Cover wiih U a/ 1 e >»- a v> m. seaM- 



/vu</e \y^ S7\i>> ^-vvais-V Dra}+. 







m 



W 

i\\jSk 




148 PRACTICAL SEWING AND DRESSMAKING 

goods lengthwise. Sew the top of this piece to the bottom of the 
waist, having the seam on the wrong side. Before stitching, 
baste a straight band about % of an inch wide so that it may be 
turned up over the seam. Stitch and turn the band up, having 
turned in the raw edge. Work about 3 buttonholes down the 
right-hand hem and place buttons on the left hem. Have one 
at the top, one at the waist line, and one half way between. 



LESSON XXXIII 

SEAMLESS CORSET COVER MADE FROM THE SHIRT-WAIST DRAFT 

i. Trace off on another piece of paper the back piece of the 
shirt-waist draft. 

2. Measure towards the right from point V i inch. Connect 
this point with point T by a straight line. 

3. Measure to the left of W 1 inch, and connect this point 
with T by a straight line. 

4. Lay these two lines on top of each other and trace off the 
waist. 

5. Cut out in the neck as much as desired. 

6. Add to the front of the neck 3 inches. Point U. 

7. Measure to the right of point X 3 inches. Mark this V. 

8. Connect U and V with a straight line. This line is the 
front line of the corset cover. 

9. Cut all in one piece, laying the center back line on a fold 
of the goods lengthwise. 

10. Gather the bottom, beginning about 2Y2 inches from the 
Under Arm for the back and 4 inches for the front (Y to V). 

11. Finish the bottom with a circular frill, as given for the 
corset cover with Under Arm seam. 

12. Gather the front at the neck, as given for the other corset 
cover. 



149 



Se 2> mless Cone \- cover* 



Yna3e ^Yoyw § Aiv+wax$} D^a^f 




LESSON XXXIV 

women's circular drawers 

To take the measures — 
Take waist measure, as for dress. 

Measure down the side of the leg from the waist line to just 
above the bend of the knee. 
Measures used in draft given — 

Waist measure 25 inches 

. Measure to knee 23 inches 

Take a piece of paper having a square corner and one straight 
edge. 

1. Measure from the corner of the paper 2 inches. Point 
A. 

2. With A as a center and a radius of 10 inches, draw a circle, 
beginning at the edge of the paper. Mark this circle B-C. 

3. From B on this circle measure 1 inch. Mark this point 
D. 

4. From B, down the edge of the paper, measure 6 inches. 
Mark this point E. 

5 . Connect D and E with a straight line. 

6. Measure from point D on circle B-C 1 inch more than J4 
the Waist measure. Mark this point F. 

7. From F on circle B-C measure 4 inches. Mark this point 
G. 

8. Measure from point D, down the edge of the paper, the 
length of leg from waist to knee. Mark this point H. 

9. With the corner of the paper as a center and the distance 
from the corner to H as a radius, draw a circle from H. 

151 



152 PRACTICAL SEWING AND DRESSMAKING 

10. On this circle from H measure 24 inches. Mark this 
point I. 

n. Connect I and G with a straight line. 

12. From G on line I-G measure 17% inches. Mark this point 

j- 

13. Measure from I on circle H-I 1% inches. Mark this 
point K. 

14. Connect points K and F with a straight line. 

15. At J square a line with line G-I. 

16. Place point J on the chart at J on the draft so that the 
curve just touches line F-K. Draw curve. 

This finishes the front portion of the drawers. 
To draft the back — 

1. Measure from the corner of the paper 2 inches. Mark this 
point A. 

2. With A as a center and a radius of 10 inches, draw a circle 
beginning at the edge of the paper. Mark this circle B-C. 

3. From B on circle B-C measure 1 inch. Mark this point D. 

4. From B, down the edge of the paper, measure 6 inches. 
Mark this point E. 

5. Connect D and E with a straight line. 

6. Measure from D on circle B-C 34 the Waist measure. 
Mark this point F. 

7. Measure from F towards B on circle B-C, 1 inch. Mark 
this point G. 

8. Measure from D, down the edge of the paper, the length of 
leg from waist to knee. Mark this point H. 

9. Measure from point A, 2Y2 inches. Mark this point I. 

10. With I as a center and I-H as a radius, draw a circle 
from H. 

11. Measure from H, on this circle, 26 inches. Mark this 
point J. 

12. Connect J and G with a straight line. 

13. Measure from G on line G-J, 20 inches. Mark this point 
K. 



PRACTICAL SEWING AND DRESSMAKING 153 

14. At point K square a line with line J-G. 

15. Measure from K on this line ij^ inches. Mark this point 
L. 

16. Continue line L-K past K. 

17. Measure on this line from K, 2 inches. Mark this point 
M. 

18. Connect M and F with a straight line. 

19. Place point J on the chart at L and hold chart so that the 
curve just touches line M-F. Draw curve. 

20. Connect J and L with a straight line. 

21. Place point D on the chart at point G and hold so that 
C on the chart just touches line F-M. Draw curve. 

This finishes the back portion of the drawers. 

In cutting the pattern from the draft lay line E-H of the front 
on line E-H of the back as there should only be one piece for 
each leg of the drawers. There should be no seam at the side. 

TO MAKE THE DIFFERENT SIZES 

For every inch added to the waist, add 1 inch to curve H-I of 
the front and curve H-J of the back. Also add x /l inch to G-J 
of the front and G-K of the back. 

HOW TO CUT ; MAKE AND FINISH THE CIRCULAR DRAWERS 

Cut out two pieces of the material, one for each side. Sew line 
J-I to line L-J of each leg, making a fell seam. Sew line F-J 
of one front to line F-J of the other, beginning at point F and 
sewing for about 7 inches. This seam should be made a fell 
seam. (See Lesson I.) Cut a bias band about 1 inch wide and 
sew to the rest of this line F-J, placing the bias band on the right 
side of the garment. Stitch in a seam about J^ i ncn fr° m tne 
edge. Turn the band over on the wrong side of the garment, and 
after turning in the raw edge, stitch into place. Put a bias 
facing on lines G-L of both backs just as you have just been 






<J 



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o 

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CO 



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Woynens Circular Drawers. 



€3$e t>\ PjL-pey 




156 PRACTICAL SEWING AND DRESSMAKING 

taught to do on the fronts. Sew line D-E to line D-E at each side, 
making a fell seam. Finish about the top with a bias facing, 
put on just as you did the other facings. The lower edge of 
this one will have to be stretched, as it is put on a circle. This 
finishes the drawers except the bottoms of the legs. These may 
be finished just with a little lace edge, or they may have a 
ruffle 2Y2 or 3 inches wide. The draft was made full length, so 
it must be cut off as much at the bottom as the trimming is 
wide. Sew one edge of the facing about the bottom at the same 
time you sew the ruffle, turn in the raw edge, and turn the facing 
up to form a narrow hem. Three buttons and buttonholes should 
be placed down the back, beginning at G, about 2 inches apart. 
Rather large buttons are best. 



LESSON XXXV 

DRAFTING THE PEINCESS GOWN 

The waist part of the princess gown is drafted just like the 
tight waist with French forms. 
Measures used for draft given — 

Waist measure 25 inches 

Neck measure 13^2 inches 

Armhole measure 15 inches 

. Bust measure 39 inches 

Back Width measure i^H inches 

Under Arm measure 7^ inches 

Front Length measure 15X inches 

Upper Front measure 10^ inches 

Back Length measure 16 inches 

i. Draw line A-B length of Back measure. 

2. Measure from A the Under Arm measure. Mark this 
point C. 

3. B to D is Y2 inch. 

4. At D square a line with A-D. 

5. Measure from D on this line \ x /l inches. Mark this point 
E. 

6. Place point on the chart at B and draw curve through 
E. 

7. At C square a line with A-B. 

8. C to F is Y2 of Bust measure. 

9. From C on line C-F measure Y2 of back width. Mark this 
point G. 

10. At G square a line with line C-F. 

11. Measure on this line from point G 1-3 of Armhole measure. 
Mark this point H. 

157 



158 PRACTICAL SEWING AND DRESSMAKING 

12. Place point D on the chart at point E, and draw curve 
through H. Extend curve J^ inch beyond H. 

13. Extend line G-H above H 1% inches. Mark this point I. 

14. At I square a line with line G-I. 

15. On this line measure from I 2 inches. Mark this point 

j- 

16. From G on line C-F measure 34 of Armhole measure. 
Mark this point K. 

17. Find a point half way between K and G. Mark this point 
L. 

18. At K square a line with C-F. 

19. Measure on this line 2Y2 inches from K. Mark this 
'point M. 

20. Measure full length of curve E-H, and measure the same 
length from J on line I-J, extended. Mark this point N. 

21. Place point G on the chart at H and draw curve through 
L. 

22. Place point O on the chart at M and draw curve through 
L. 

23. Place point F on the chart at M and draw a curve through 

j- 

24. Square a line with line C-F so that it will pass through 
N. 

25. Measure on this line from C-F the Upper Front measure, 
less what is used in the back neck. Mark this point 0. 

26. Place point D on the chart at and draw curve through 

27. From O measure on this line 34 of Neck measure. Mark 
this point P. 

28. At P square a line with line 0-P. 

29. Measure on this line from P 1-6 of the Neck measure and 
add 34 mcn - Mark this point Q. 

30. Place point J on the chart at Q and draw curve through 
O. 

31. From Q draw line through F. 



PRACTICAL SEWING AND DRESSMAKING 159 

32. From Q on this line measure the Front length measure. 
Mark this point R. 

33. At L square a line with line C-F. 

34. Measure on this line from L the Under Arm measure. 
Mark this point S. 

35. Connect S and A with a straight line. 

36. From A on this line measure % of an inch. Mark this 
point T. 

37. Connect T and B with a straight line. 

38. Measure on the shoulder curve 2 inches from the Arm- 
hole. Mark this point U. 

39. Find a point half way between T and S. Measure % 
inch to the left of this point. Mark this point V. 

40. From V measure \}/± inches to the right. Mark this 
point W. 

41. Connect U and W with a straight line. 

42. Place point C on the chart at V and let point D touch 
line U-W. Draw curve. 

43. Measure to the right of S, 1 inch. Mark this point X. 

44. Place point D on the chart at L and draw curve through 
X. 

45. Measure to the left of S, i% inches. Mark this point Y. 

46. Place point A on the chart at Y and draw curve through 
L. 

47. Measure from T to W and from V to X. This shows 
how much of the Yl Waist measure has been used in the 
back. 

48. From point Y towards R measure what is left of the 
]/2 Waist measure after taking out what is used in the back. 
Mark this point. 

49. Measure the distance from this point to point R. 

This gives what must be taken out in the dart to bring the 
waist in to the desired measure. In this case it is 4^ inches. 

50. Place point C on the chart at R and with curve C-F 
draw curve to S. 



160 PRACTICAL SEWING AND DRESSMAKING 

51. Measure from J on curve J-O, 2 inches. Mark this point 
Z. 

52. Measure from R 2Y2 inches. Mark this point a. 

53. Connect a and Z with a straight line. 

54. Measure from a on line a-Z 8 inches for a tall figure and 
6 for a short figure. Mark this point c. 

55. Measure to the right of a 4^ inches, or the amount to be 
taken out in the dart. Mark this point b. 

56. Place point B on the chart at c and with curve A-B con- 
nect c with b. 

57. Measure down from R 5 inches and from this point meas- 
ure to the right J^ inch more than from R to a. Mark this point 
e. 

58. Draw a straight line from a through e and continue it 
the length of the front skirt measure. Point f. 

59. Continue line Q-F-R down the length of front skirt 
measure. Point d. 

60. Connect d and f with a straight line. 

61. Square a line at b with line a-b and continue it down the 
length of front skirt measure. 

62. Continue line L-S down below S 5 inches. Mark this 
point h. 

63. Measure 1 inch to the right of h. Mark this point i. 

64. Place point D on the chart at Y and draw curve through 
i. Extend line down the length of side skirt measure. The 
slant of this line will depend on how full the skirts are being 
worn. 

65. Draw straight line from X through h. Continue down 
length of side skirt measure. 

66. Find a point half way between V and W and square a 
line with line V-W and draw 5 inches long. Mark this point j. 

67. Draw straight line from V through j and continue down 
length of back skirt measure. 

68. From W draw straight line through j and continue down 
length of back skirt measure. 



JWftcess Gowyl. 




jfa PRACTICAL SEWING AND DRESSMAKING 

69. Continue line A-B 5 inches below A. Mark this point k. 

70. From T draw straight line through k. Continue down 
length of back measure. 

The slant of all the lines to 5 inches below the waist measure 
will depend on the hip measure. From this point down it depends 
entirely on the fullness of the skirts being worn. The back lines 
should always slant more than the front, to fit over the large part 
of the hips. 

The draft given makes a medium width skirt. 



LESSON XXXVI 

DRAFTING THE SINGLE - BREASTED, TIGHT - FITTING, TAILORED 

COAT 

In drafting the coat some of the measures must be increased, 
as the coat is made to go on over the dress. 

We add i inch to Waist measure 26 inches 

Neck measure same as for dress 13^ inches 

Add 1 inch to Armhole measure 16 inches 

Add 1 inch to Bust measure 40 inches 

Add yi inch to Back Width measure 14 inches 

Under Arm same as for dress 7^ inches 

Front Length same as for dress. i$}4 inches 

Add yi inch to Upper Front n>£ inches 

Back Length same as for dress 16 inches 

i. Draw A-B length of back. 

2. Measure on line A-B from A the Under Arm measure. 
Mark this point C. 

3. Continue line A-B above B % of an inch. Mark this 
point D. 

4. At D square a line with line A-B. 

5. Measure from D on this line 1% inches. Mark this point 
E. 

6. Place point on the chart at B and draw curve through 
E. 

7. At C square a line with line A-B. 

8. Measure from C on this line J^ the Bust measure. Mark 
this point F. 

9. Measure from C on line C-F the Back Width measure. 
Mark point G. 

10. At G square a line with line C-F. 

163 



164 PRACTICAL SEWING AND DRESSMAKING 

ii. Measure on this line 1-3 of the Armhole measure. Mark 
this point H. 

12. Place point D on the chart at E and draw curve through 
H. Extend curve 3^2 mcn beyond H. 

13. Extend line G-H above H 1% inches. Mark this point 
I. 

14. At I square a line with line G-I. 

15. Measure from I on this line 2 inches. Mark this point 

j- 

16. Measure to left of G on line C-F 34 the Armhole measure. 
Mark this point K. 

17. Find a point half way between G and K. Mark this point 
L. 

18. At K square a line with C-F. 

19. From K measure on this line 2% inches. Mark this point 
M. 

20. Place point G on the chart at the end of curve E-H 
and draw curve through L. 

2 1 . Place point on the chart at M and draw curve through 
L. 

22. Place point F on the chart at M and draw curve through 

j- 

23. Extend line I- J. 

24. Measure the full length of curve E-H and measure the 
same distance from J. Mark this point N. 

25. Square a line with line C-F so that it will pass through N. 

26. Measure on this line from line C-F the Upper Front 
measure, less what is used in the back neck. Mark point O. 

27. Place point D on the chart at and draw curve 
through J. 

28. Measure from on line O-N J^> the Neck measure. Mark 
this point P. 

29. At P square a line with line O-N. 

30. From P on this line, measure 1-3 the Neck measure plus 
J4 inch. Mark this point Q. 



PRACTICAL SEWING AND DRESSMAKING 165 

31. Place point N on the chart at and draw curve through 

Q- 

32. Draw a straight line from Q through F. 

33. Measure on this line from Q the Front Length measure. 
Mark this point R. 

34. Find a point half way between K and L. Mark this 
point S. 

35. At S square a line with line C-F. 

36. Measure from S on this line the Under Arm measure. 
Mark this point T. 

37. Connect T and A with a straight line. 

38. Measure on this line from A, Y2 of an inch. Mark this 
point U. 

39. Connect U and B with a straight line. 

40. Measure from U, ij^ inches. Mark this point V. 

41. Find a point half way between E and the other end of 
curve E-H. Mark this point W. 

42. Connect W and V with a straight line. 

43. Measure from V, ij^ inches. Mark this point X. 

44. Place point C on the chart at X and allow point D to 
touch line W-V. Draw curve. 

45. Measure to the right of T, 1 inch. Mark this point Y. 

46. Place point D on the chart at S and draw curve through 
Y. 

47. Find a point half way between Y and X. Mark this 
point Z. 

48. Measure to the right of Z, J^ of an inch. Mark this 
point a. 

49. Measure to the right of a, 1 inch. Mark this point b. 

50. Place point C on the chart at b, and with curve C-F draw 
curve through G and continue to Armhole line. 

5 1 . Place point C on the chart at a and allow D to touch curve 
G-b. Draw curve. 

52. Measure to the left of T ij^ inches. Mark this point c. 

53. Place point A on the chart at c and draw curve through S. 



166 PRACTICAL SEWING AND DRESSMAKING 

54- Place point C on the chart at R and with curve C-F draw- 
curve through c. 

55. From R measure to the right 3 inches. Mark this point d. 

56. Measure from on curve J-0 the same distance as E 
to W. Mark point e. 

57. Connect e and d with a straight line. 

58. Measure up from d on line d-e, 8 inches for slender form, 
and 6 for full form. Mark this point f. 

59. Find on the tape-line, 3^ of the Waist measure. Place 
this point at U and measure from U to V, then from X to b, 
then from a to Y. Place the point on the tape-line which falls 
at Y, at point c and with the rest of the Waist measure, measure 
towards R. Mark where the end of the tape-line falls. 

60. From this point to R is the amount which must be taken 
out in the dart to bring the coat in to the desired measure. In 
this case it is 5 inches. 

61. Measure from d on curve R-c the amount to be taken out 
in the dart. Mark this point g. 

62. Place point B on the chart at f and draw curve through g. 

TO FORM SKIRT OF COAT 

63. Continue line A-B below A 5 inches. Mark this point h. 

64. Connect U and h with a straight line. Continue line 
down as long as the coat is to be. 

65. Find a point half way between V and X. Mark this point 
i. 

66. At i square a line with line A-T. 

67. Measure from i on this line 5 inches. Mark this point j. 

68. Connect j with V and with X by straight lines. Continue 
lines down to bottom of coat. 

69. Find a point half way between a and b. Mark this point 
k. 

70. At k square a line with line A-T. 

71. Measure from k on this line 5 inches. Mark this point 1. 



PRACTICAL SEWING AND DRESSMAKING i6j 

72. Connect 1 with a and with b by a straight line. Continue 
line down the length of the coat. 

73. Continue line S-T below T 5 inches. Mark this point 
m. 

74. Connect Y with m by a straight line and continue line 
down the length of coat. 

75. Measure to the right of m, 1 inch. Mark this point n. 

76. Place point F on the chart at c and draw curve through 
n. 

77. Square a line at g with the straight line from d to g. 
Draw line the length of the coat. 

78. Measure down from R, 5 inches. Mark this point o. 

79. Square a line with line Q-R at o. 

80. Measure from o on this line J^ of an inch more than from 
R to d. Mark this point p. 

81. Draw a straight line from d through p and continue down 
the length of the coat. 

This forms the skirt of the coat, making a coat of medium 
fullness. The fullness must be governed by the coats being 
worn. Draw the lines from the hips down, more or less slanting 
as desired. 

The coat, as it is, just comes together in front. We must add 
something for lap for buttons and buttonholes. 

82. At F square a line with line Q-R and measure from F 2 
inches. Mark this point q. 

83. At R square a line with line Q-R and measure from R, 2 
inches. Mark this point r. 

84. Draw a line through q and r the full length of coat. 

85. Continue line P-Q out to q-r. Mark this point s. 

86. Measure down from s, J£ of an inch. Mark this point t. 

87. Connect Q and t with a straight line. 

88. Measure from t on line t-q, 8 inches, or any desired dis- 
tance. Mark this point u. 

89. Continue line J-N until it touches the neck curve. Mark 
this point v. 



Snrfle J.W.J T»*H-* m,V * Co ^- 




PRACTICAL SEWING AND DRESSMAKING 169 

90. Measure down from v on the neck curve, 3^ inch. Mark 
this point w. 

91. Connect w and u with a straight line. This forms the 
Lapel. 

to draft the collar 

92. Measure from on the shoulder curve, Y% inch. Mark 
this point x. 

93. Place point D on the chart at v and draw curve through x. 

94. Extend this curve beyond x as much as the back neck 
measures. Mark this point y. 

95. Connect y and x with a straight line. 

96. Square a line with this line at y. 

97. Measure on this line from y, 2^ inches. Mark this point 
z. 

98. Measure to the right from z, J^ inch. Mark this point 
aa. 

99. Measure from y on line y-z 1 inch. Mark this point bb. 

100. Connect aa and bb with a straight line. 

101. Square a line with line w-u, so that it will run through 
point Q. 

102. Measure from Q, iJi inches. Mark this point cc. 

103. Place point B on the chart at aa and draw curve through 
cc. 

104. Place point C on the chart at v and draw curve through 
bb. 



LESSON XXXVII 

LOOSE-FITTING UNLINED COAT 

Measures used for this draft — 

Neck measure 13 inches 

Armbole measure 17 inches 

Bust measure 40 inches 

Back Width measure 14 inches 

Under Arm measure 7^ inches 

Front Length measure i$}4 inches 

Upper Front measure 11X inches 

Back Length measure 16 inches 

Length from back of neck straight down back to 

bottom of coat 58^ inches 

Length from front of neck, straight down front to 

bottom of coat $5H inches 

i. Draw line A-B length of back to waist line. 

2. From A measure on line A-B Under Arm measure. Mark 
this point C. 

3. From B measure up Y2 m ch. Mark this point D. 

4. At D square a line with A-D. 

5. From D on this line measure 1% inches. Mark this point 
E. 

6. Place point on the chart at B, and draw curve through 
E. 

7. At C square a line with line A-B. 

8. From C measure on this line Y2 of Bust measure. Mark 
this point F. 

9. From C on line C-F measure Y of Back Width measure. 
Mark this point G. 

10. At G square a line with line C-F. 

171 



172 PRACTICAL SEWING AND DRESSMAKING 

ii. Measure from G on this line -J of Armhole measure. 
Mark this point H. 

12. Continue the line above H i% inches. Mark this point 
I. 

13. Place point D on the chart at E and draw curve through 
H. Extend curve Y2 m ch beyond H. 

14. At I square a line with line G-I. 

15. From I on this line measure 2 inches. Mark this point J. 

16. From G on line C-F measure 34 of Armhole measure. 
Mark this point K. 

17. Find a point half way between G and K. Mark this point 
L. 

18. At K square a line with line C-F. Mark this point M. 

19. Place point G on the chart at end of curve E-H and draw 
curve through L. 

20. Place point O on the chart at M and draw curve through 
L. 

21 Place point F on the chart at M and draw curve through 

j- 

22. Continue line I- J to the left. 

23. From J on this line measure the same distance as the 
full length of curve E-H. Mark this point N. 

24. Square a line with line C-F so that it will pass through N. 

25. From line C-F, measure on this line the Upper Front 
measure less what is used in the back neck. Mark this point 
O. 

26. Place point D on the chart at and draw curve through 

j- 

27. From measure down Y2 of Neck measure. Mark this 
point P. 

28. At P square a line with line O-P. 

29. Measure from P on this line 1-3 of Neck measure, plus 
34 inch. Mark this point Q. 

30. Place point J on the chart at Q and draw curve through 
O. 



Loose Fi\\iy\§ Uy\line3 Coa-f. 




174 PRACTICAL SEWING AND DRESSMAKING 

31. Draw straight line from Q through F. 

32. Find a point half way between K and L. Mark this 
point R. 

33. At R square a line with line C-F. 

34. Measure on this line from R, the Under Arm measure. 
Mark this point S. 

35. Measure to the left of S, % of an inch. Mark this point 
T. 

36. Draw a straight line from R through T and continue it 
down the length of the coat. 

37. Measure down from Q on line Q-F the length you wish 
your coat to open in the neck. Mark this point U. 

38. At U square a line with line Q-U. 

39. Measure on this line from U 4 inches, for the lap of the 
coat in front (double-breasted). Mark this point V. 

40. Connect point V and a point on the neck curve opposite 
point N with a straight line. 

41. Measure down from U any convenient distance. Mark 
point W. 

42. At W square a line with line Q-W. 

43. Measure from W on this line Y2 mcn l ess than from U to 
V. Mark this point X. 

44. Draw a straight line from V through X and continue 
down the length of coat. Point Y. 

45. Continue line A-B down the length of coat. 

The line R-T forms the under arm line for both front and 
back. 

If more fullness is desired, measure 1 inch from S to T, instead 
of % of an inch, and measure % of an inch to the right of S. 
Draw lines from R through these points. These coats are usu- 
ally made up without a collar or with a large sailor collar. The 
sleeves may be made a medium sized flowing sleeve or the regu- 
lation coat sleeve. 



LESSON XXXVIII 

THE SLIGHTLY FITTED COAT 

Measures used for draft given — 

Waist measure 26 inches 

Neck measure \$yi inches 

Armhole measure 16 inches 

Bust measure 20 inches 

Back Width measure 14 inches 

-Under Arm measure 7K inches 

Front Length measure 15K inches 

Upper Front measure 11^4 inches 

Back Length measure 16 inches 

1. Draw A-B length of back. 

2. From A measure the Under Arm measure. Mark this 
point C. 

3. Measure above B, Y2 inch. Mark this point D. 

4. At D square a line with line A-D. 

5. From D on this line measure 1% inches. Mark this point 
E. 

6. At C square a line with line A-B. 

7. Measure from C on this line the Bust measure. Mark this 
point F. 

8. From C on line C-F measure the Back Width. Mark this 
point G. 

9. At G square a line with line C-F. 

10. Measure from G on this line 1-3 of Armhole measure. 
Mark this point H. 

11. Place point D on the chart at E and draw curve through 
H. Extend curve Y% inch beyond H. 

175 



176 PRACTICAL SEWING AND DRESSMAKING 

12. Extend line G-H above H ij^ inches. Mark this point 
I. 

13. At I square a line with line G-I. 

14. From I on this line measure 2 inches. Mark this point 

j- 

15. Measure from G on line C-F 34 the Armhole measure. 
Mark this point K. 

16. Find a point half way between K and G. Mark this 
point L. 

17. At K square a line with line C-F. 

18. Measure from K on this line 2Y2 inches. Mark this point 
M. 

19. Place point G on the chart at the end of curve E-H and 
draw curve through L. 

20. Place point on the chart at M and draw curve through 
L. 

21. Place point F on the chart at M and draw curve through 

j- 

22. Measure curve E-H and measure the same distance from 
J. Mark this point N. 

23. Square a line with line C-F so that it will pass through 
point N. 

24. Measure from line C-F on this line the Upper Front meas- 
ure, less what is used in the back neck. Mark this point 0. 

25. Measure down from 0, x /i the Neck measure. Mark this 
point P. 

26. At P square a line with line 0-P. 

27. Measure from P on this line 1-6 of Neck measure. Mark 
this point Q. 

28. Place point N on the chart at and draw curve through 

Q- 

29. Draw a line from Q through F. 

30. Measure from Q on this line the Front Length. Mark this 
point R. 

31. At L, square a line with line F-C. 



PRACTICAL SEWING AND DRESSMAKING 177 

32. Measure from L on this line the Under Arm measure. 
Mark this point S. 

33. Connect S and A with a straight line. 

34. Measure from A, 1-3 the distance from A to S. Mark this 
point T. 

35. Measure Y2 inch to the left of T. Mark this point U. 

36. Find a point half way between E and the end of curve 
E-H. Mark this point V. 

37. Connect U and V with a straight line. 

38. Measure to the left of U, Y inch. Mark this point W. 

39. Place point C on the chart at W and allow curve to touch 
line U-V. Draw curve. 

40. Measure to the right of S, Y2 inch- Mark this point X. 

41. Place point C on the chart at L and draw curve through 
X. 

42. Measure to the left of S, 1 inch. Mark this point Y. 

43. Place point B on chart at L and draw curve through Y. 

44. Measure from R 1-3 the distance from R to Y. Mark this 
point Z. 

45 . Measure from E to V, and measure this same distance from 
O. Mark this point a. 

46. Connect a and Z with a straight line. 

47. Find out how much should be taken out on the dart to 
bring the coat in tight to the waist and take out about 2-3 of 
this amount. Mark this point b. 

48. Draw a straight line from b to the point where b'ne C-F 
crosses line a-Z. 

49. Continue line Q-R below A 6 inches. 

50. Measure from c square over Y2 inch more than from R to 
z. Mark this point d. 

51. Connect d and Z by a straight line. 

52. Connect Z and b with a straight line and square a line 
with this line at b. 

53. Measure down 6 inches. Mark this point e. 

54. Continue line A-B below a 6 inches. Mark this point f. 



178 PRACTICAL SEWING AND DRESSMAKING 

55. Find a point half way between W and U. Mark this 
point g. 

56. Square a line at g with line A-S. 

57. Measure down from g 6 inches. Mark this point h. 

58. Connect h with U and W by straight lines. 

59. Continue line L-S down 6 inches. Mark this point i. 

60. Connect i with X and Y by straight lines. 

61. Square a line with line Q-R at F. 

62. Measure from F on this line 4 inches. Mark this point j. 

63. Square a line with line Q-R at a point ij^ inches below 
Q on line Q-R. 

64. Measure from Q on this line 4 inches. Mark this point 
k. 

65. Connect k and j with a straight line. 

66. Measure from k on line k-j 9 inches, or as much as you 
wish the coat to open in front. Mark this point 1. 

67. Measure down ^2 mcn fr° m where line J-N meets the 
neck curve. Mark this point m. 

68. Connect m and 1 with a straight line. This forms the 

LAPEL. 

In making the coat lap the fronts so that line Q-R of one side 
falls on line Q-R of the other. 

TO DRAFT THE COLLAR 

69. Measure from on the shoulder curve % of an inch. 
Mark this point n. 

70. Place point D on the chart at m and draw curve through 
n. Extend curve as much beyond n as the back of the neck 
measures. Mark this point o. 

71. Square a line at o with a straight line from n to o. 

72. Measure from o on this line ij^ inches. Mark this 
point p. 

73. Continue the line up from p \ x /l inches. Mark this point 

q- 



SliqlU)! Fitte* C'*h 




180 PRACTICAL SEWING AND DRESSMAKING 

74. Measure to the right of q 34 inch. Mark this point r. 

75. Measure from k 2% inches. Mark this point s. 

76. Place point D on the chart at m and draw curve through s. 

77. Place point D on the chart at p and draw curve through 
m (break of collar.) 

' 78. Square a line with line m-1 so that it passes through s. 

79. Measure from s on this line 2 inches. Mark this point t, 

80. Square a line with line m-1 at m. 

81. Measure from m on this line 2^ inches. Mark this point 
u. 

82. Place point B on chart at r and draw curve through u. 

83. Place point F on chart at t and draw curve through u. 



LESSON XXXIX 

HOW TO MAKE AND FINISH THE TAILORED COAT 

We have taught you how to draft the coat. This is a compar- 
atively easy thing, but to make the coat is one of the most 
difficult things the dressmaker is called upon to do. However, if 
you follow our directions carefully you will have little trouble. 

After having made your draft, make a pattern, just as you 
were taught to do in making the gowns. Lay the pattern on the 
goods, having the wrong side of the goods up. If the goods has a 
nap, this should run down. Be sure to have the waist line of 

THE PATTERN ON THE STRAIGHT OF THE GOODS CROSSWISE. Mark 

carefully all seams and the waist line with tailor's chalk, also mark 
where the pockets are to be. Mark the line which is the turn of 
the lapel, where the bottom of the coat should be, and for the 
buttons and buttonholes. After these lines have all been marked 
with the chalk, trace on all of them with a running stitch, using 
a thread of a contrasting color from the goods. Be very careful 
to keep exactly on the line. We are now ready to shrink and 
stretch the different parts, to give it the desired curves. It is 
the curve which gives the garment style. The directions we 
give will be for the fitted coat. The loose coat and the semi- 
fitted will not need it. 

A large tailor's iron must always be used in making the tai- 
lored garment. The main reason why a dressmaker's coat sel- 
dom has the style of the tailored garment is because it is nearly 
always pressed with a common flat-iron. The iron which is 
used by the tailor is never lighter than 15 pounds, while the ordi- 
nary flat-iron only weighs about 3 or 4 pounds. Heat the iron 
as hot as it can be used without scorching. Never use it on the 
bare goods and never on the right side of the goods. Use a clean 

181 



182 PRACTICAL SEWING AND DRESSMAKING 

sponge to dampen the goods and a piece of clean muslin without 
starch to place between the goods and the iron. Have a flat 
ironing-board, not too heavily padded. It must be hard enough 
to give the goods a very dead press. We are ready to proceed 
with the shrinking and stretching. With the wet sponge dampen 
a line on each piece, represented in the drawing by letters A ; B, 
C, D. While they are still wet, place the iron on them. Be very 
careful to have the goods perfectly smooth under the iron. If 
„any little creases are pressed in it is very difficult to get them out. 
This is all there is to the shrinking process, but as simple as it 
may seem, it is really difficult and needs considerable practice. 
Now we will begin to stretch the seams, to give the desired curve. 
For this you must study the form for which the garment is being 
made. For a very full form you will need to stretch the seams 
quite a bit, while for a very slender person they will only be 
stretched a very little. 

Take the front piece first. Dampen with the sponge the under 
arm seam at the waist line and a little above and below. While 
it is wet, place it on the board, and as it is pressed stretch it as 
desired. Nov/ dampen the place which comes at the highest 
part of the bust (indicated by a cross on the drawing). Stretch 
this by moving the iron about in a small circle. Take great 
care not to stretch it too much, as the curve of the seam will 
give nearly all that is needed. Take the under arm piece and 
stretch each edge at the waist line as you did the front, also 
stretch the waist line at point a. The back pieces will not 
need to be stretched, unless for a very full form, as the back is 
straighter than the front and does not need so much curve. Be 
careful to stretch each seam the same amount. 

We are ready now to sew up the seams. Sew the two front 
pieces together first. Before beginning to baste, pin the seams 
at the waist line, then at the shoulder , and in between these points 
every few inches, as in basting one side will stretch more than 
the other. Continue the pinning down to the bottom of the 
coat. Now baste the seam with a running stitch, taking rather 



PRACTICAL SEWING AND DRESSMAKING 183 

small, even stitches. Next pin and baste the two back form 
pieces together in the same way. The seams next to the middle 
back seam are usually left open for about 4 or 5 inches from the 
bottom, if it is a short jacket. If a long coat, then the back seam 
is left open instead of the side ones, from the waist line to the 
bottom of the coat. When these seams are left open a piece must 
be cut on one side of the seam to run under the opening. Baste 
the front to the under arm piece, and last of all the back parts 
to the under arm piece, in each case beginning at the under arm 
piece and working both ways. Stitch the seams, dampen and 
press open. If the goods has a nap the seams should be scraped 
before pressing. Scrape against the nap with a dull knife or 
shears. This gives a flatter appearance to the seam when pressed. 
If pockets are put in the coat they must be located with great 
care. No matter how well the coat is made, if the pockets are 
badly located the coat will look home-made. Until you learn 
by practice just where the pocket should be, you will have to 
locate them by placing the garment on the patron and placing 
them where they look the best. You will soon learn to tell very 
nearly where they should be. To put in the pocket — Place 
a piece of linen canvas back of the marking for the pocket. Make 
a, smooth straig ht cut on the line of basting. Cut two pieces of 
the goods thus, V J about 1 inch longer than the cut; these 
two pieces are the pocket. Lay one of the pieces on the right 
side of the coat, so that the top edge comes just even with the 
lower side of the cut. Have the right side of the goods together. 
Stitch across on the machine, making a very small seam. Push 
this piece of the pocket through the opening, and turn down so 
that a little of the pocket shows from the right side, like a small 
cord. Stitch across on the right side near the first stitching. 
Now make a flap for the pocket. Cut a piece of the goods about 
2% inches wide and Y2 inch longer than the opening of the pocket. 
Turn the ends in a little more than J^ inch, and one long side the 
same amount. Dampen and press a dead press. Fit a piece of 
the material to be used for the coat lining to this piece of goods, 



1 84 PRACTICAL SEWING AND DRESSMAKING 

turning in all the edges, except the one unfinished side. Do not 
have the lining come quite to the edge. Press again without 
dampening, and stitch about the three sides so that the stitch- 
ing will catch the lining. This finishes the flap for the pocket. 
The flap when it is finished should be just the size of the opening. 
Place the flap with its right side against the right side of the 
coat, above the opening, so that its unfinished edge is just even 
with the upper side of the opening. Stitch across, making a very- 
small seam. Turn the flap down over the opening, and turn the 
seam up and baste on the outside near the first stitching. Put 
the right side of this piece against the right side of the coat. Now 
lay the other piece of the pocket on the wrong side of the coat 
so that the straight side is just above this last basting; stitch 
on this basting, being careful to catch the pocket. Turn the coat 
over. The two pieces which form the pocket will He one on top 
of the other. Stitch them together in a flat seam. Stitch twice 
so they will not rip. The front edge of the flap should always 
follow the front edge of the coat. This is the most common way 
of finishing the pocket. There are many fancy ways to be found 
on the ready-made garments. Keep your eyes open and you 
will learn many of them. 

Now we must put the canvas in the coat. If the coat is made 
of rather light goods, the entire coat should be lined with a light 
weight cotton canvas, which may be bought at any dry goods 
store. If the goods is firm and heavy this interlining need not 
be used. The canvas must be tailor's canvas, and not the kind 
used by dressmakers for many purposes. Spread the canvas 
flat on the ironing-board. Wet a large piece of muslin very wet 
and spread over it. Iron with a very hot iron until the cloth 
is dry. Turn the canvas over and place the wet cloth on this 
side and press dry. Remove the cloth and press the canvas 
until thoroughly dry. Spread the canvas on the cutting-table 
and put the pattern on it. Trace the shape shown in the drawing, 
remove the pattern and cut out. In cutting this piece the length- 
wise threads of the canvas should follow the edge of the coat. 



PRACTICAL SEWING AND DRESSMAKING 185 

Slash the edge of the canvas in about 1Y2 inches where it comes 
over the most prominent part of the bust, half way between the 
neck and armhole at the shoulder seam, and about 2 inches from 
the shoulder seam in the neck. Stretch these slashes open and 
baste pieces of canvas back of them so that they cannot come 
together again. Dampen the canvas where the prominent part 
of the bust comes and stretch to form the proper shape. Two of 
these pieces should be prepared, one for each side of the coat. 
Baste them into place, having the edge of the canvas come even 
with the coat. Cut the canvas back about J4 of an inch from 
the edge of the cloth. Now we must pad the lapels with the 
padding stitch. These stitches should be short and near to- 
gether. Begin at the line for the turn of the lapel. Take the 
stitches through the canvas and into the goods, but not through 
it so that it shows on the right side. Completely rill the lapel 
with stitches, done in rows following the line of turning. As the 
work is done cause the lapel to have a slight curl. This will cause 
it to turn more gracefully and give style to the garment. Pro- 
vide yourself with some stay tape. Fasten this about the edge, 
putting it on rather tightly. Do not allow the stitches where it 
is fastened to show on the right side. Dampen and press dry. 
Now sew up the shoulder seams, without catching in the canvas. 
Press with a dead press and allow the canvas to he flat over the 
seam. Cut two pieces of the goods the same shape as the canvas, 
for a facing of the coat. Baste the edges of the facing to the 
edges of the coat, having the right side of the facing against the 
right side of the coat. Stitch the edges as near the stay tape as 
possible. Turn the facing over on the wrong side of the coat 
and baste the edges together, making a straight, even edge. Be 
sure that the corner of the lapel is pulled out so that it makes a 
good shaped corner. Roll the lapel over as it should roll when 
finished and baste the facing along the line of turning. Baste 
the back edge of the facing to the coat. Cut a piece of the light 
canvas which was used for the interlining, on the bias, about 1^/2 
inches wide. Fold this through the center lengthwise and baste 



186 PRACTICAL SEWING AND DRESSMAKING 

the turned edge along the thread where the coat is to turn up 
about the bottom. Use short stitches in basting this so that it 
will stay exactly on the thread. Turn the goods up on this 
canvas, being sure to turn on the exact line for the bottom. 
We are ready to put on the collar. Trace off the collar from the 
draft on another piece of paper and cut out, allowing }/[ mcn 
seams everywhere. Have the right sides of the goods together 
and cut two pieces together. Before raising the pattern from the 
goods, mark the back seam. Stitch this, open and press. Cut 
two pieces of canvas on the bias by the same pattern. Stitch 
the back seam and press open. Lay the back seam of the canvas 
on the back seam of the goods, having the canvas on the wrong 
side of the goods. Baste the canvas and the cloth together 
thoroughly. Cut the canvas away from the outside edge and 
at the ends about 34 inch. Fasten the canvas to the goods with 
a padding stitch, stretching the goods a little tighter than the 
canvas, so that the collar will roll as it should when on the coat. 
The padding should be done from the canvas side. After this 
is thoroughly done, stitch the collar with straight rows of stitch- 
ing until the point is reached where the collar turns. From this 
point to the outer edge stitch with a row of zig-zag stitching 
extending the full length of the collar. Thus - 



Cut another piece from the goods by the same pattern but 
having no seam in the back. Lay the back edge of the pattern 
on fold of the goods length- wise. Allow about x /i inch on the 
neck edge and allow seams as you did on the other pieces. Baste 
this piece to the collar you have prepared, having the right sides 
of the goods together. Stitch on the machine along the two ends 
and the outside edge, near the edge of the canvas. Turn the 
collar so that both sides are of the goods and the canvas is be- 
tween. Baste along the edge, making a smooth even, edge. Pin 
the back seam of the collar, leaving the outside piece of the goods 
loose, to the back seam of the coat. Have the under side of the 
collar against the right side of the coat. Pin the neck edge of 



PRACTICAL SEWING AND DRESSMAKING 187 

the collar each way from the seam to the neck of the coat so 
that the ends of the collar come at point Q on the draft, or 1% 
inches from the point of the lapels. Baste this seam firmly 
and stitch on the machine. Dampen and press open, taking great 
care not to spoil the curve. Bring the right side of the collar 
over smoothly and baste along the line of turning. Bring it 
on over to the neck seam, and baste. You will find that there 
is a little seam where the facing and the collar meet at each end, 
which is not stitched. Bring the seam together neatly so that 
it will follow the seam underneath it and blind stitch with very 
small stitches. Stitch all about the edge of the coat about J4 
inch from the edge. Be very careful when you stitch about the 
lapels and collar to turn good square corners. 

We are ready now to line the coat. Cut the back pieces of 
the lining % of an inch larger than the pattern at the back seam. 
Cut the side pieces the same as the pattern. Cut the front side 
pieces the same as the pattern, but when you cut the front pieces, 
lay a plait in the goods about the center of the shoulder seam 
and about 1 inch deep at the shoulder seam, allowing it to taper 
out to nothing as it comes down to the bust. Allow enough to 
turn in where the lining comes on to the front facing. Baste up 
all but the shoulder and under arm seams. Stitch and press. 
Baste the back seam to the back seam of the coat. Baste all 
about the armholes and at the shoulder and under arm seams. 
Turn in the neck and baste down. Baste the fronts in about the 
armholes. Turn in the shoulder seams and baste down flat to 
the back shoulder seams. Turn in the under arm seam and 
baste flat to the back portion. Turn in down the front and 
baste to the back edge of the facing. Turn up all about the 
bottom, keeping the lining away from the edge of the coat about 
1-8 of an inch. Now hem the shoulder seams, the under arm 
seams, down the front, about the bottom and about the neck. 
The coat is all finished now but the sleeves. 

Cut the pattern and the sleeves from the goods just as you did 
.for the dress sleeve. Baste up and try on. Get the exact length 



Colt Showing where $}retchi*f 
a*J skYtyiTfiTif is 3oiie, a Xj> y>iecc 



| C a>\vas 2"K |^^*nh 




PRACTICAL SEWING AND DRESSMAKING 189 

and run a thread marking where the sleeve is to turn. Stitch 
up the inside seam and press open. Open the other seam and 
spread the sleeves out on the table. Cut a piece of the tailor's 
canvas 3^ inches wide and cover one edge with a piece of 
cotton lining material cut on the bias. Baste the piece of can- 
vas to the sleeve so that the covered edge just follows the line 
where the sleeve is to turn up. Baste the canvas to the sleeve 
thoroughly and stitch up the outside seam of the sleeve. Press 
open. Turn up the sleeve at the hand. Cut a lining by the same 
pattern, stitch up and press. Place inside of the sleeve and the 
seams together. Turn the lining up at the hand and hem to the 
sleeve about 1 inch from the edge of the sleeve. Sew the sleeves 
to the coat without catching the lining. Stitch in and bring the 
lining up over the seam. Turn in and hem down. 



LESSON XL 

THE CHILD'S DRAFT 

The measures used are of a child 3 years of age. 

Bust measure 24 inches 

Neck measure 9K inches 

Waist measure 23 inches 

Armhole measure 13 inches 

Front Length measure 10 inches 

Back Length measure 9 inches 

Under Arm measure 4K inches 

Upper Front measure &}i inches 

Back Width measure 8 inches 

i. Draw line A-B length of back. 

2. Measure from A on line A-B the Under Arm measure. 
Mark this point C. 

3. Continue line A-B above B 34 inch. Mark this point 
D 

4. At D square a line with line A-B. 

5. From D measure on this line ij^ inches. Mark this point 
E. 

6. At C square a line with line A-B. 

7. Measure from C on this line J^ of Bust measure. Mark this 
point F. 

8. From C on line C-F measure Y2 the Back Width measure. 
Mark this point G. 

9. At G square a line. 

10. Measure on this line from G 1-3 of Armhole measure. 
Mark this point H. 

1 1 . Place point D on the chart at E and draw a curve through 
H. Extend curve }/% inch beyond H. 

191 



192 PRACTICAL SEWING AND DRESSMAKING 

12. Continue line G-H above H ij^ inches. Mark this point 
I. 

13. At I square a line with line G-I. 

14. From I measure on this line 2 inches. Mark this point J. 

15. From G on line C-F measure to the left J^ of Armhole 
measure. Mark this point K. 

16. Find a point half way between K and G. Mark this point 
L. 

17. At K square a line with line C-F. 

18. Measure from K on this line 2 inches. Mark this point 
M. 

19. Place point G on the chart at the end of curve E-H and 
draw line touching line G-H. 

20. Place point K on the chart at this point and draw curve 
through L. 

21. Place point K on the chart at M and draw curve through 
L. 

22. Place point F on the chart at M and draw curve through 

j- 

23. Measure the full length of curve E-H and measure the 
same distance from J on line I-J continued. Mark this point N. 

24. Square a line with line C-F so that it will pass through N. 

25. Measure from line C-F on this line the Upper Front meas- 
ure, less what is used in the back neck. Mark this point O. 

26. Place point D on the chart at and draw curve through 

j- 

27. Measure down from on line O-N 34 of Neck measure. 
Mark this point P. 

28. At P square a line with line O-N. 

29. Measure from P on this line 1-6 of Neck measure and add 
34 inch. Mark this point Q. 

30. Place point J on the chart at Q and draw curve through O. 

31. Draw a line from Q through F. 

32. Measure from Q on this line the Front Length measure. 
Mark this point R. 



CteUa* $»i\t 




194 PRACTICAL SEWING AND DRESSMAKING 

33. At L square a line with line C-F. 

34. Measure from L on this line the Under Arm measure. 
Mark this point S. 

35. Connect A and S with a straight line. 

36. Connect S and R with a straight line. 

37. Find out how much too large the Waist measure is. In 
this case it is 1% inches. 

38. Measure half this distance to left of S and half to right 
of S. Mark these points T and U. 

39. Place point B on the chart at L and draw curve through 
T. 

40. Place point B on the chart at L and draw curve through 
U. 

In cutting out allow all seams. 



LESSON XLI 



Measures used for draft given — 

Arm Length measure 8 inches 

Arm Length to elbow 4 inches 

Armhole measure 13 inches 

Hand measure 6 inches 

i. Draw A-B length of Arm. 

2. From A measure length of Arm to bend of Elbow. Point C. 

3. At A square a line with line A-B. 

4. At B square a line with line A-B. 

5. At C square a line with line A-B. 

6. Measure from B on line, Y2 inch. Mark this point D. 

7. Measure from C, 34 inch. Mark this point E. 

8. Measure to the left of A, Y2 inch. Mark this point F. 

9. Place point D on the chart at E and draw curve to F. 

10. Connect E and D with a straight line. 

n. Measure to the right of D, 1 inch. Mark this point G. 

12. Measure to the right of G, 2 inches more than the Hand 
measure. Mark this point H. 

13. Measure to the right of H, 1 inch. Mark this point I. 

14. Extend line A-B above A, ij^ inches. Mark this point 

j- 

15. Measure to the right of J, 3^2 inch. Mark this point K. 

16. Measure from A, the Armhole measure. Mark this 
point L. 

17. Measure to the left of L, 4 inches. Mark this point M. 

18. Measure to the left of L, i% inches. Mark this point N. 

*95 



ChiJJs' Sleeve 




PRACTICAL SEWING AND DRESSMAKING 197 

19. At M square a line with line A-L and extend line J-K to 
meet it. Point 0. 

20. At K square a line with line 0-K and mark where it 
touches line A-L, P. 

21. Place point D on the chart at L and draw curve to I. 

22. Place point J on the chart at F and draw curve through K. 

23. Place point F on the chart at O and draw curve to N. 

24. Place point F on the chart at N and continue curve to L. 

25. Find a point half way between P and M. Mark this point 

Q- " 

26. With Q as a center and a radius Q-K ? draw curve from K 
to 0. 

27. Find a point half way between D and I. Mark this point 
R. 

28.. Square a line at R with line D-I and measure on this line 
from R, Yz inch. Mark this point S. 

29. Place point D on the chart at S, and draw curves through 
D and I. 

30. Gather the sleeve from 1 inch from D to 1 inch from I. 
Also from K to 0. 



LESSON XLII 
child's coat sleeve 
Measures used for draft given — 

Arm Length measure 8 inches 

Arm Length to elbow 4 inches 

Armhole measure 13 inches 

Hand measure 6 inches 

Elbow measure 8 inches 

i. Draw A-B length of Arm. 

2. Measure from A on line A-B length of Arm to bend of 
Elbow. Mark this point C. 

3. Square a line with line A-B, at C. 

4. Measure from C on this line Y inch. Mark this point D. 

5. Place point D on the chart at D and draw curves to A 
and B. 

6. Square a line at B with line A-B. 

7. Measure from B on this line Yi the Hand measure. Mark 
this point H. 

8. Measure to the right of H YL inch. Mark this point I. 

9. At I square a line with line B-I. 

10. Measure from I on this line Y2 inch. Mark this point J. 
n. Connect J and B with a straight line. 

12. Measure from J on this line Y2 inch. Mark this point K. 

13. Measure from D Yl of Elbow measure. Mark this point 
E. 

14. Measure to the left and right of E Y inch. Mark these 
points F and G. 

15. Place point F on the chart at F and draw curve through 
K. 

199 



ChilJs' Sleeve. 




PRACTICAL SEWING AND DRESSMAKING 201 

1 6. Place point F on the chart at G and draw curve through 

17. Measure line G-J and add enough to line F-K to make it 
the same length. Mark this point L. 

18. Connect L and B with a straight line. 

19. At A square a line with line A-B. 

20. Measure from A on this line Y% of Armhole measure. Mark 
this point M. 

21. Measure to the left of M 3 inches. Mark this point N. 

22. Continue line A-B above A, 1 inch. Mark this point 0, 

23. At square a line with line B-0. 

24. At N square a line with line A-M and mark point P, 
where it meets line from 0. 

25. Square a line at M with line A-M and mark point Q, 
where it meets line from 0. 

26. Connect P and F with a straight line. 

27. Place point D on the chart at G and draw curve to Q. 

28. Measure from on line 0-Q x /l inch. Mark this point R. 

29. Place point F on the chart at R and draw curve to A. 

30. Place point F on the chart at P and draw curve to S, 
which is 1 inch to the right of A. Continue curve to A. 

31. Use N as a center and N-R as a radius and draw curve 
R-Q. 

In cutting pattern allow all seams. 



LESSON XLIII 

child's rompers 

The rompers given are for a child of 3 years. 
Use the same draft as for the child's waist. 

1. Add 1 inch down the back line, S-T-U. 

2. Add 2 inches to the bottom of the back waist portion, 
line W-V. 

3. Add 1 inch to the front line X-Y-Z. 

4. Leave out lines L-U and L-T of the waist draft. 

5. For the back neck, measure from S, 2 inches. 

6. To draft the trousers part of the rompers — Continue line 
L-S down below S, 5 inches. 

7. Measure to the right of the end of this line J/£ inch. Mark 
this point a. 

8. Connect a-S with a straight line. 

9. Continue line X-Y-Z below Z, 12}^ inches. Mark this 
point b. 

10. At b square a line with line Z-b and draw 22^ inches long. 
Mark this point c. 

11. Measure from b on line b-Z, 3 inches. Mark this point d. 

12. Measure from b on line b-c, 3 inches. Mark this point 
e. 

13. Place point J on the chart at e and draw curve through 
d. 

14. At c square a line with line c-e. 

15. Measure from c on this line, 1 inch. Mark this point f. 

16. Draw a line from e through f and continue 5 inches beyond 
f. Mark this point g. 

17. Measure from U on line U-T ij^ inches. Mark this point 



203 



PRACTICAL SEWING AND DRESSMAKING 205 

18. Place point D on the chart at S and draw curve through 
h. 

19. Continue curve 1 inch beyond i. 

20. Connect g and i with a straight line. 

21. Measure from g on line g-i 5 inches. Mark this point j. 

22. Place point J on the chart at f and draw curve through 

J- 

In cutting pattern allow all seams. 



LESSON XLIV 

HOW TO CUT AND FINISH THE ROMPERS 

Trace off on another piece of paper the front portion, 
allowing seams everywhere except down the front line X-Y-Z-d. 

Trace off the back, allowing seams everywhere except down 
the back line S-U-V, where ij£ inches should be allowed. 

Cut on line S-a. This is the pattern for the Rompers. 

The amount of goods required for the Rompers — 27 inches 
wide, 2 1-8 yards; 36 inches wide, \Yi yards; 44 inches wide, ij^ 
yards. 

To cut from the goods — Lay line X-Y-Z on a fold of the 
goods lengthwise and cut the front portion. Trace all seams 
before you raise the pattern from the goods. Lay the back on 
the double goods, having line W-V on the straight of the goods 
cross-wise. 

Sew line d-e to line f-j. 

Sew the shoulder seam of each back to the shoulder seam of 
each front. 

Sew line L-S of each back to line L-S of the fronts. 

Face each side, line S-a, with a continuous facing. Turn the 
facing on the back under for a hem and leave the front project- 
ing for an under lap. 

Sew line i-j of one side to i-j of the other. 

Gather line i-s of each side so that it fits on to line S-U of 
the back, and face it with a straight facing about 1 J^ inches wide. 

Turn in the edges down the back 1 inch after having turned in 
the raw edge and stitch. 

Finish the neck square or round, with either a bias band of the 
goods put on the right side or with embroidery insertion. 

Sew buttons and work buttonholes down the back. 

207 



PRACTICAL SEWING AND DRESSMAKING 209 

Work buttonholes along line S-i and place buttons along 
S-U. 

Put a half -inch hem in the bottom of each leg and run elastic 
in the hems, just the size of the child's leg, but not tight. 

For the sleeve use the Child's Full Sleeve Draft. Finish at the 
hand with a straight band or insertion. 

Make a belt ij^ inches wide and fasten along the top of the 
back of the trousers part and bring it around in front and button. 

TO DRAFT THE DIFFERENT SIZES 

Take the measure of the child for the waist part and draft 
the same as the Child's Waist Draft. For the leg part, for each 
size larger add 1 inch to the length of the leg from waist line 
down. 

Add Yz inch to the length of line Z-d and I-j. 



LESSON XLV 

BOY'S RUSSIAN BLOUSE SUIT 

To take the measures for Blouse — 



Bust measure plus 2 inches. 

Neck measure. 

Waist measure plus 2 inches. 

Armhole measure. 

Front Length to waist line. 

Back Length to waist line. 

Upper Front measure. 

Front Length from neck to knee less 2 inches. 

Back Length from neck to knee less 2 inches. 

Back Width measure. Plus 1 inch. 



Measures used for this draft 

Bust 26 inches 

Neck q}£ inches 

Waist 25 inches 

Armhole 13 inches 

Front to waist 10 inches 

Back to waist 9 inches 

Upper Front %]4 inches 

Back Width 9 inches 

Front Length to knee 20 inches 

Back Length to knee 19 inches 



THE BLOUSE 

i. Draw line A-B length of back to waist line. 

2. From A measure the Under Arm measure. Mark this 
point C. 

3. Continue line A-B above B, JH> inch. Mark this point D. 

4. Square line at D with line A-D. 

211 



212 PRACTICAL SEWING AND DRESSMAKING 

5. Measure from D on this line i^ inches. Mark this point 
E. 

6. Measure from C 3^ of Bust measure. Mark this point F. 

7. Measure from C on line C-F ; J^ the Back Width measure. 
Mark this point G. 

8. At G square a line with line C-F. 

9. From G measure on this line 1-3 the Armhole measure. 
Mark this point H. 

10. Place point D on the chart at E and draw curve through 
H, continue Y2 mcn beyond H. 

11. Continue line G-H above H ij^ inches. Mark this point 
I. 

12. At I square a line with line G-I. 

13. From I on this line measure 2 inches. Mark this point J. 

14. From G on line C-F measure 34 the Armhole measure. 
Mark this point K. 

15. Find a point half way between G and K. Mark this 
point L. 

16. At K square a line with line C-F. 

17. Measure from K on this line 2 inches. Mark this point 
M. 

18. Place point G on the chart at the end of curve E-H and 
draw curve touching line G-H. 

19. Place point K on the chart at the point where curve 
touches line G-H and draw curve through L. 

20. Place point G at M and draw curve through L. 

21. Place point F on the chart at M and draw curve through 

j- 

22. Find the full length of curve E-H and measure this same 
distance from J on line I-J continued. Mark this point N. 

23. Square a line with line C-F so that it will pass through 
N. 

24. Measure on this line from line C-F the Upper Front 
measure less what is used in the back neck. Mark this point 
O. 



PRACTICAL SEWING AND DRESSMAKING 213 

25. Place point D on the chart at and draw curve through 

j- 

26. Measure down from J^ of Neck measure. Mark this 
point P. 

27. At P square a line with line O-P. 

28. Measure from P on this line 1-6 of the Neck measure. 
Add x /i inch. Mark this point Q. 

29. Place point J on the chart at Q and draw curve through 
O. 

30. Draw line from Q through F. 

31. Measure from Q on this line the Front Length measure to 
waist line. Mark this point R. 

32. At L square a line with line C-F. 

33. Measure from L on this line the Under Arm measure. 
Mark this point S. 

34. Measure 1 inch to the right and 1 inch to the left of S. 
Mark these points T and U. 

35. Measure down from B the length of back to 2 inches above 
knee. Mark this point W. 

36. Measure from Q the full length of front to 2 inches above 
knee. Mark this point V. 

37. Connect V and W with a straight line. 

38. Draw straight line from L through T and U and continue 
to line from V to W. 

39. The line from L through U belongs to the back. 

40. The line from L through T belongs to the front. 

THE KNICKERBOCKERS 

The Knickerbockers given are for a 2 -year-old child. 
Front of knickerbockers — 

1. Draw line A-B 18^ inches long. 

2. At B square a line with line A-B. 

3. Measure on this line from B 8 inches. Mark this point C. 

4. At C square a line with line B-C. 



#0} S' ^USSUH f>lblA.%e 




w 



PRACTICAL SEWING AND DRESSMAKING 215 

5. Measure on this line 16 inches. Mark this point D. 

6. Square a line at D with line D-C and draw out to line A-B. 

7. Measure from D on this line % of an inch. Mark this 
point E. 

8. Measure down from D on line C-D 7 inches. Mark this 
point F. 

9. Place point C on the chart at F and draw curve to E. 

10. Measure from line A-B on line from D 1 Y2 inches. Mark 
this point G. 

n. At G square a line with line D-G. 

12. Measure from G on this line % of an inch. Mark this 
point H. 

13. Place point B on the chart at H and draw curve through 
E. 

14. Measure from B on line A-B 8 inches. Mark this point 
I. 

15. Square a line at I with line A-B. 

16. Measure from I on this line iJ4 inches. Mark this point 

j- 

17. Connect J and G with a straight line. 

18. Measure from J on line J-G % of an inch. Mark this 
point K. 

19. Place point K on the chart at K and draw curve through I. 
Back of knickerbockers — 

1. At B square a line with line A-B. 

2. Measure from B on this line n^ inches. Mark this point 
L. 

3. At L square a line with line B-L. 

4. At A square a line with line A-B. Mark the point where 
this line meets line from L, M. 

5. From A on line A-M measure 5)^ inches. Mark this point 
N. 

6. Find a point half way between B and I. Mark this point 
0. 

7. Connect and N with a straight line. 



-$ o y s ' Ki\ i c /r e y» £ o c 7r e y> s. 




PRACTICAL SEWING AND DRESSMAKING 217 

8. Place point K on the chart at I and hold chart so that J 
touches line O-N. Draw curve. Mark this point P. 

9. Measure from M on line M-L 2^ inches. Mark this 
point Q. 

10. Measure from B on line B-L 9 inches. Mark this point 
R. 

n. Find a point half way between Q and L. Mark this point 
S. 

12. At S square a line with line Q-L. 

13. Measure from S on this line 2^ inches. Mark this point 
T. 

14. Place point C on the chart at R and draw curve to T. 

15. Place point C on the chart at T and draw curve to Q. 

16. Continue line N-Q beyond Q iJ4 inches. Mark this 
point U. 

17. Measure down from Q on curve Q-T 6 inches. Mark this 
point V. 

18. Measure straight out from V i}i inches. Mark this 
point W. 

19. Connect W and U with a straight line. 

20. Measure from Q on curve Q-N 2 inches. Mark this point 
X. 

21. Square a line at X and draw 3^ inches long. Mark this 
point Y. 

22. Connect Y and X with a straight line. 

23. Measure from X towards Q Y2 mcn - Mark this point Z. 

24. Connect Z and Y with a straight line. 

For every size larger, add 1 inch on lines B-C, B-L, A-M, 
D-G. 

Add 1 inch on lines B-A, L-M, C-D. 

Make the distance from B to I Y2 inch more for each size. 



LESSON XLVI 

HOW TO MAKE A BOY'S RUSSIAN BLOUSE, AND KNICKERBOCKERS 

We will teach you how to make the perfectly plain Russian 
Blouse, buttoned straight down the front. This same blouse 
may have plaits down the front and back and it may be cut away 
in front at the neck and be finished with a large sailor collar. 
If you learn to make the plain garment you will be able to follow 
designs for more elaborate blouses. Lay line B-W on the length- 
wise fold of the goods. Allow a large seam on the shoulder so 
if the blouse needs any fitting there will be goods enough to do 
it. Allow seams everywhere. 

Cut two pieces like the front. Allow two inches on the bottom 
for hem. Sew in a French seam the under arm seams and shoul- 
der seams, or the seams may be stitched and all turned one way 
and stitched again on the outside. Turn each front in about 
i inch for a hem, and after turning in the raw edge stitch as near 
the edge as possible. Turn the bottom up two inches, and after 
turning in the raw edge stitch the hem in. 

Lap the right front over on the left i inch. Sew buttons on 
the right-hand side and work buttonholes on the left-hand 
side. Finish the neck with a round turn-over collar. (Cut the 
collar as directed for grown person.) Use the child's full sleeve 
draft for the sleeves. Instead of gathering them in, plait them 
into the armhole and at the hand. Begin at the middle of the 
sleeve and lay a small box plait. Lay small side plaits on either 
side of this until the sleeve is the right size for the armhole and 
hand. Face the sleeve at the hand. 

Place little straps made of the goods on the under arm seams, 
to hold a belt made of the goods or of leather. 

To make the knickerbockers — Cut out two pieces for the 

219 



220 PRACTICAL SEWING AND DRESSMAKING 

fronts, and two for the backs. Lay line A-B each time on the 
straight of the goods lengthwise. Sew line B-I of the front to 
line B-I of the back. Sew line F-C of the front to line V-R of 
the back. This forms the two separate legs. Pin the two Legs 
together at point I. 

Sew line K-H of one front to line K-H of the other. Sew line 
I-N of one back to line I-N of the other. Face the seam on 
each side of the front and put an under lap from I to K where the 
seam was not sewed. Turn in lap V-Q-U-W half way, so that 
it will form a hem and under lap. Fasten a pocket at line E-F 
on the front, or for very little children the pocket may be left 
out. 

Sew in the dart X-Y-Z. Put a bias facing all about the top 
of the back, also the front, just the size of 3^ the waist plus 2 
inches for both the front and back, for the band must lap over 
1 inch at each side where it fastens. Sew a button at E on each 
side, and work a buttonhole at Q on each side. Work button- 
holes all along the waist line to button on to the under waist. Put 
a hem in the bottom of each leg Y2 i ncn wide and run elastic in, 
or gather the leg and put on a straight band, having a buckle 
sewed on the end. If this is done, seam B-I should be left open 
about 2 or 2Y2 inches from the bottom and both sides faced. 

For a boy of 6 years or over the knickerbockers should fasten 
in the front instead of at the sides. In this case, where the 
pockets are put in at the sides, sew one side of the pocket to 
the front and the other to the back piece, having the seams on 
the inside. Turn each seam back and stitch again on the right 
side. 

Make the facing about the top all in one piece, opening at the 
front center seam. In cutting the pattern leave a projecting 
piece on the fronts at line H-K about 1% inches wide. On the 
right side turn this piece back to form a hem, after having turned 
in the raw edge. Take a straight piece of goods 3 inches 
wide and fold it lengthwise in the center. Turn the two raw 
edges in and place the piece just where the hem on the right 



222 PRACTICAL SEWING AND DRESSMAKING 

front will be stitched. This forms a fly for the buttonholes 
under the hem. Work buttonholes in this fly and catch it to 
the hem between the buttonholes. Do not catch through to the 
outside. Line with a straight piece of the goods the projecting 
piece on the left front and allow it to project under the button- 
holes of the right side. Place buttons on this piece to correspond 
with the buttonholes. 

Put a pocket on each side of the back about 2Y2 inches from 
the top, and about half way between the side and back seams. 
Make a pointed flap over each of these pockets, and put a button 
on the pocket and work a buttonhole in the corner of the flap. 



LESSON XLVn 
child's pa jama suit 

To make the coat, draft the same as the child's waist draft. 
Add to the back of the neck 34 mcn > and 3^ inch at the waist 
line in the back. Draw the middle back line through these two 
points. Leave out lines L-T and L-U. 

Add 2 inches to the front at the middle line for lap, point W. 
Measure down from W 2 inches. Mark this point X. Place 
point F on the chart at X and allow curve F-J to touch curve 
O-Q. 

Add 4 inches to the bottom of the draft below waist line. In 
cutting out pattern allow seams everywhere. Turn the edge of 
the goods, about the neck and down the front, on the right side, 
and cover with a fancy braid or bias band of the goods. Allow a 
hem 1 Y2 inches wide about the bottom. Lap the front so that 
line Q-R of one side comes on line Q-R of the other. Fasten 
down the front with buttons, or with fancy frog ornaments. 

The pajama part of the suit is drafted just like the knicker- 
bockers, but the lines T-R, O-B, and F-C are extended below 
C-B-R enough to make them come to the ankles. This amount 
depends on the size of the child. The dart is left out in the back, 
and gathered into the waist band. The front should be sewed 
to a waist made like the child's draft, but very loose about the 
waist and across the shoulders. The back is fastened to a band 
and buttoned to the waist. For large boys the waist is not used. 
The side seams are sewed up to the band and the pajamas are 
left open in front. A tape is fastened to each end of the band and 
tied in front. Place buttons and buttonholes down the front. 



223 



\ Soys' 




LESSON XL VIII 

child's drawers 

The draft given is for a child of 5 years. 

For every year in size add \i inch to front waist measure and 
}/i inch to back waist measure, 1 inch to length of leg, and J^ 
inch to width of leg on front and back. 

The normal waist measures for children are as follows : 

1 year old 20^ inches 

' 2 years old 21 inches 

3 years old 21^2 inches 

4 years old 22 inches 

5 years old 22% inches 

6 years old 2$ inches 

7 years old 23 inches 

8 years old 23K inches 

9 years old 23^ inches 

10 years old 24 inches 

i. Draw line A-B. 

2. Find center between A and B. Mark this point C. 

3. At C square a line with line A-B. Mark this point C-D. 

4. From C on line C-D measure 1 inch. Mark this point E. 

5. From C on line C-A measure 9 inches. Mark this point 
F. 

6. From E on line C-D measure 15^ inches. Mark this 
point G. 

7. At G square a line with line C-D. 

8. Measure to the left of G %% inches. Mark this point H. 

9. At H square a line with line G-H. 

10. Measure from H on this line 3 inches. Mark this point 

L 

225 



226 PRACTICAL SEWING AND DRESSMAKING 

ii. Continue line G-H 4 inches. Mark this point J. 

12. At J square a line with line G-J. 

13. Measure on this line from J 63^ inches. Mark this point 
K. 

14. Connect K and I with a straight line. 

15. Place point F on the chart at I and draw curve through 
K. 

16. Place point F on chart at I and draw through curve H. 

17. Connect K and F with a straight line. 

18. Find a point half way between F and K. Mark this point 
L. 

19. On this line measure % of an inch from L. Mark this 
point M. 

20. Place point D on the chart at M and draw curve through 
K. 

21. Place point D on the chart at M and draw curve through 
F. 

This finishes the front of the drawers. 

22. Measure from C on line C-B 7^ inches. Mark this point 
N. 

23. At N square a line with line C-B. 

24. Measure from N on this line 1^2 inches. Mark this 
point O. 

25. From G measure to the right &% inches. Mark this point 
P. 

26. At P square a line with line G-P. 

27. From P on this line measure 3 inches. Mark this point 

Q- 

28. Continue line G-P 4 inches. Mark this point R. 

29. At R square a line with line G-R. 

30. From R measure on this line 6}4 inches. Mark this 
point S. 

31. Connect S and Q with a straight line. 

32. Place point F on the chart at Q and draw curve through 
S. 



Child s x 3)y±wB r s. 



r 





3 



228 PRACTICAL SEWING AND DRESSMAKING 

33. Place point F on the chart at Q and draw curve through 
P. 

34. Connect S and with a straight line. 

35. Find a point half way between S and 0. Mark this point 
T. 

36. At T square a line with S-0. 

37. Measure from T on this line Y2 inch. Mark this point U. 

38. Place point D on the chart at S and draw curve through 
U. 

39. Place point C on the chart at U and draw curve through 
0. 

This finishes the draft of the drawers. 

In cutting patterns allow seams everywhere. 



LESSON XLIX 

HOW TO MAKE LITTLE GIRLS ' CLOTHING 

For a little girl's dress the draft given may be used in a variety 
of ways. 

For the dress with the skirt gathered on at the waist line, use 
the draft just as it is. Cut a pattern by tracing off on another 
piece of paper, allowing seams everywhere, and about ij^ inches 
down the back on each side for buttons and buttonholes. Put 
all tucks in the goods before laying on the pattern. Any trimming; 
like insertion of lace or embroidery may be laid on after the 
garment is cut, but this should be planned for before tucks are 
put in, so that the tucks will come just where they are wanted. 
After the waist is cut out, cut off lengths enough for the skirt 
to make it the desired fullness about the bottom. (This will 
depend on the size and age of the child.) From the breadth 
which is to be used for the front of the skirt, gore off about three 
inches, slanting out to the selvage. For the other breadths use 
the goods straight on both edges. Allow a hem two or three 
inches wide. Gather this skirt to the waist at the waist line, 
placing more fullness in the back than in front. A belt of in- 
sertion of lace or embroidery may be used. 

If the dress is to be Mother Hubbard, use just the neck and 
shoulder part of the draft for a yoke and gather the skirt on to 
the yoke. Use the straight breadths, putting more fullness in 
the back than in front. If you wish to make a one-piece dress 
with box plaits down the front and back, trace the front and 
back on another piece of paper. Extend line Q-R straight down 
from R the length the skirt should be. Extend lines L-U and 
L-T down the same length but slant them out enough to make 

the skirt the desired fullness. A dress of this kind should not 

229 



PRACTICAL SEWING AND DRESSMAKING 231 

have a very full skirt. Extend line A-B down the same distance. 
Cut the pattern out, allowing all seams. Lay box plaits in the 
goods lengthwise so that one will come in the middle front, and 
one about the middle of the shoulder line at each side. In the 
back, one should be down the middle of the back and one each 
side about the middle of the shoulder line. These plaits should 
match on to each other at the shoulder. Cut an opening under 
each plait at the waist line and run a belt through. Either a 
leather belt or one of the goods may be used. 

Child's Blouse Waist. — To make the child's blouse waist, 
slant the middle back line out 1 inch at the waist line. Slant 
the front line out 1 inch at the waist line. Draw straight line 
from L through U for the back under arm and draw a straight 
line from L through T for the under arm of the front. Add 2^ 
inches to the bottom of the waist. Put a narrow hem in the 
bottom aud run an elastic in. 

Little Girl's Under Clothing. — For the little girl's under waist 
this same draft may be used. Face the bottom with a bias 
facing about 1^2 inches wide and the armholes with a bias 
facing 1 inch wide. Make a hem down each side of the back and 
work buttonholes and sew on buttons. Place the buttonholes 
on the right hand side. Sew buttons about the bottom to but- 
ton the waist on. 

Little Girl's Skirt. — Make the skirt straight, and not quite 
as full as the dress skirt. Place a hem in the bottom about ij^ 
inches wide and a straight band at the waist line about ij^ 
inches wide. Leave the skirt open about 7 or 8 inches down the 
back and hem the left side with a hem % inch wide and the right 
side with a narrow hem. Lap the wide hem over on the narrow 
one at the bottom and stitch across the bottom to keep it from 
tearing down. Work buttonholes in the waist band to match 
the buttons on the waist. If desired the skirt may be sewed to the 
waist, but this is not desirable, as one often wishes to change one 
of the garments and not the other. 

Child's Drawers. — Cut two pieces like the draft. Sew curve 



PRACTICAL SEWING AND DRESSMAKING 233. 

K-I-H to curve S-Q-P. Sew line F-M-K of one piece to the 
same line of the other. Slash both pieces down from E about 6 
inches. Face this slash with a continuous facing. Leave the 
front side out for an under lap and turn the other back. Gather 
the waist line of the back to a straight band 2 inches longer than 
Y2 the waist measure and the back to a straight band the same 
length. This band should be about ij^ inches wide when fin- 
ished. Sew a button to each end of the front band and work a 
buttonhole in each end of the back band. Work buttonholes 
in the middle at the back and front to button on the waist. 

Child's Night-gown. — Use the child's waist draft. For a 
perfectly plain gown use the draft as it is, leaving out lines L-U 
and L-T. Draw lines slanting out from L to make the desired 
fullness about the bottom, according to the size of the child. 
Cut both the back and front on a fold of the goods lengthwise. 
Cut the front open on the center front line to about 4 or 5 inches 
below the waist line. Hem the left side of the opening with a 
very narrow hem and the right side with an inch- wide hem. Lay 
the right side over on the left and stitch across the bottom. Face 
the neck with a bias facing and sew a little edge to it. Trim the 
sleeves at the hand the same way. Use the full sleeve draft. 
Put a hem in the bottom about ij^ inches wide. The gown 
may be made full about the neck if desired. For this allow 2 
inches on the back and 3 on the front. Gather about the neck 
and then face as in the plain gown. 



9J 
to 

o 




LESSON L 

infant's first outfit 

The Pinning Blanket. — For the skirt, 
i. Draw line A-B 25 inches long. 

2. At A, square a line with line A-B. 

3. Draw 5 inches long. Mark this point C. 

4. Measure up from C x /i inch. Mark this point D. 

5. Place point D on the chart at A and draw curve through 
D. - 

6. At B square a line with line A-B. 

7. Measure from B on this line 14 inches. Mark this point 
E. 

8. Connect D and E with a straight line. 

9. Measure from D on line D-E the same distance as A to 
B. Mark this point F. Connect B and F with a slightly curved 
line. 

10. Draw line G-H 25 inches long. 
n. At G square a line with line G-H. 

12. Measure from G 7J/2 inches. Mark this point I. 

13. Measure up from I ij^ inches. Mark this point 

j- 

14. At H square a line with line G-H and draw 16^ inches 
long. Mark this point K. 

15. Connect J and K with a straight line. 

16. Measure down from J the same distance as from G to 
H. Mark this point L. 

17. Connect L and H with a curved line. 

18. Place point D on the chart at G and draw curve to 

J. 

235 



236 PRACTICAL SEWING AND DRESSMAKING 



THE WAIST- 

19. Draw line M-N 5 inches long. 

20. At M square a line with line M-N and draw 13 inches long.. 
Mark this point O. 

21. Measure up from O, Y2 inch. Mark this point P. 

22. Measure from M on line M-O, 7^ inches. Mark this 
point Q. 

23. Place point C on the chart at P and draw curve through 

Q- 

24. At N square a line with line M-N and draw 13 inches long. 
Mark this point R. 

25. Measure down from R, Y2 inch. Mark this point S. 

26. Measure from N, 3 inches. Mark this point T. 

27. Place point D on the chart at S and draw curve through 
T. 

28. Measure to the left of Q, 3 inches. Mark this point 
U. 

29. At Q square a line with line O-Q and draw 5 inches long. 
Mark this point V. 

30. Place point F on the chart at U and draw curve to 
V. 

31. Continue line Q-V above V 1^2 inches. Mark this point 
W. 

32. At W square a line with line Q-W. Draw 1 J^ inches long. 
Mark this point X. 

33. Measure to the left of U, 2 inches. Mark this point 
Y. 

34. Place point F on the chart at Y and draw curve through 
X. 

35. Find a point half way between U and Q. Mark this 
point Z. 

36. With Z as a center and Z-U as a radius connect U and Q 
with a curve. 



PRACTICAL SEWING AND DRESSMAKING 237 

The pinning blanket is made of white flannel. 

Cut two pieces for the fronts and two for the backs. Join 
the two backs at line J-L. Join line G-H to line D-F. These 
seams should be pressed open and cat-stitched on the right 
side with white silk. 

Put a hem ij^ inches wide down the fronts and about the 
bottom. Baste the hem in and cat-stitch it on the right side 
with silk, catching through so as to fasten the hem in. Cut the 
waist with line M-N on a fold of the goods. Cut two pieces, as 
the waist is made double. Stitch the two pieces together all 
about the top and ends. Turn and baste the edges together so as 
to make a nice smooth edge. Stitch again all around, and turn 
in the two lower edges. Slip the top edge of the skirt part in 
between these edges, having point J come at N. Stitch across 
on the. machine on the right side. Work a buttonhole in the end 
of the shoulder strap, and place buttons as indicated on draft. 



The waist portion is made almost like the waist of the pinning 
blanket. In this waist line N-R is used for the bottom and line 
M-0 for the top. Measure out to the left of N ^ inch. Place 
point D on the chart at N and draw curve through M. This 
is the front line of the skirt waist. This part was used in the 
back for the pinning blanket. There must be a seam in this waist 
as it is a curve. Make the waist just as you did the other except 
that it will be made of fine muslin. 

Make the skirt portion straight of the goods, making each 
hreadth 26 inches long. The skirt should measure 1% yards 
about the bottom. Put a hem in the bottom i}4 inches wide, and 
open the skirt down the back 4 inches. Sew to the waist as in 
the other case, placing the gathers between the two parts of the 
waist. Put a hem % of an inch down both sides of the back, and 
down the skirt opening. Lap at the bottom as directed for 
other garments. 



PRACTICAL SEWING AND DRESSMAKING 239 



THE INFANT S SLIP OR NIGHT-GOWN 

Back of gown — 

1. Draw line A-B 36 inches long. 

2. At A, square a line with line A-B. 

3. From A measure on this line 4% inches. Mark this point 
C. 

4. Measure up from A Jk£ inch. Mark this point D. 

5. Measure to the right of A 1% inches. Mark this point E. 

6. At E, square a line with line A-C. 

7. Measure from E on this line % inch. Mark this point F. 

8. Place point K on the chart at F, and draw curve to D. 

9. Connect F and C with a straight line. 

10. Measure down from A on line A-B 3 inches. Mark this 
point G. 

11. At G square a line with line A-B. 

12. Measure from G on this line 6 inches. Mark this point H. 

13. Measure to the left of H % inch. Mark this point I. 

14. Place point J on the chart at C and draw curve to I. 
Continue curve to H. 

15. Square a line at B, with line A-B. 

16. Measure from B on this line 17 inches. Mark this point 

j- 

17. Connect H and J with a straight line. 

18. Measure from H on line H-J 32 inches. Mark this point 
K. 

19. Connect B and K with a slight curve. 

Front of gown — 

1. Draw line A-B 36 inches long. 

2. At A square a line with line A-B. 

3. Measure from A on this line &/i inches. Mark this point 
C. 

4. At C square a line with line A-C. 



Ih}*hf s Si i p 
or Niqhhfovrr*. 




PRACTICAL SEWING AND DRESSMAKING 241 

5. Measure from C on this line, 3^2 inch. Mark this point D. 

6. Measure to the right of C, 3 inches. Mark this point E. 

7. At E square a line with line A-C. 

8. Measure from E on this line, 1% inches. Mark this point 
F. 

9. Connect F and D with a straight line. 

10. Measure to the right of D, 1 inch. Mark this point G. 

1 1 . Place point K on the chart at G and draw curve through 
F. 

12. Measure down from A on line A-B, 2^ inches. Mark this 
point H. 

13. At H square a line with line A-B. 

14. Measure from H on this line, j% inches. Mark this point 
I. 

15. Measure to the right of I, ij^ inches. Mark this point 

j- 

16. Place point J on the chart at D and draw curve to J. 

17. Place point K on the chart at J and draw curve to I. 

18. At B square a line with line A-B. 

19. Measure from B on this line, 21 inches. Mark this point 
K. 

20. Connect K and I with a straight line. 

21. Measure from I on this line, 32 inches. Point L. 

22. Connect L and I with a slight curve. 

Infant's sleeve — 

1. Draw line A-B 5^ inches long. 

2. At B square a line with line A-B. 

3. Measure from B on this line 10 inches. Mark this point 
C. 

4. Measure from B Yl inch. Mark this point D. 

5. Place point D on the chart at D and draw curve through 
A. 

6. Find a point half way between D and C. Mark this point 
E. 



I"n}a-hi-s Si ee ve. 




PRACTICAL SEWING AND DRESSMAKING 24 5 

7. Square a line at E with line D-C. 

8. From E on this line, measure Y inch. Mark this point F. 

9. Place point D on the chart at F and draw curve through D. 

10. Place point D on the chart at F and draw curve through 
C. 

11. At A square a line with line A-B. 

12. Measure from A on this line io^ inches. Mark this point 
G. 

13. At G square a line with line A-G. 

14. Measure from G on this line Y2 inch. Mark this point H. 

1 5 . Place point D on the chart at C and draw curve through H. 

16. Measure to the left of G 3 inches. Mark this point I. 

17. At I, square a line with line A-G. 

18. Measure from I on this line, 1 inch. Point J. 

19. Place point F on the chart at H and draw curve through. 

j- 

20. Find a point half way between A and I. Mark this point 
K. 

21. At K square a line with line A-G. 

22. Measure on this line from K 3 inches. Mark this point 
L. 

23. Place point N on the chart at L and draw curve through A. 

24. Place point N on the chart at L and draw curve through J. 

HOW TO MAKE THE SLIP OR NIGHT-GOWN 

Cut the middle back and middle front lines on the lengthwise 
fold of the goods. Sew up the under arm seams in a very narrow 
French seam. Put a hem in the bottom, 1 inch wide for the 
night-gown, and run a tape in for a draw string. Sew the shoul- 
ders in a narrow French seam. Slash the front down 14 inches 
and hem as in the child's gown. Turn the neck down a small 
seam and cover with finishing braid. Sew to the edge of this a 
narrow lace edge. Gather the sleeves at the hand and finish 
with the finishing braid and edge. 



244 PRACTICAL SEWING AND DRESSMAKING 

For the slip put a three inch hem in the bottom, and do not 
use the draw string. Sew in the sleeve and the garment is 
finished. 



Trace off a yoke of any desired shape, using the draft for the 
slip. Add 3 inches to the center front and 3 inches to the center 
back for gathers. Make the dress when finished 36 inches long; 
it may have a wide hem in the bottom or a ruffle 3 inches wide 
on the bottom. The ruffle should be ij^ the width of the skirt 
in fullness. The dress may be as fancy as you wish, using tucks 
and lace or embroidery. Do not use ruffles about the neck or 
sleeves. The skirt of the dress should measure about 2 3-8 
yards about the bottom. Use the sleeve draft given. 



LESSON LI 

HOW TO MAKE USE OF YOUR KNOWLEDGE 

There are three ways in which you can turn your knowledge 
into money. Draft patterns for others, go out by the day to sew, 
or open an establishment of your own. If you do the latter you 
can easily combine the second with it. 

To open an establishment of your own, you may set aside 
certain rooms in your own home for your work, or you may open 
rooms in some convenient place in the down town district. In 
one way the latter is best. You can get completely away from 
your work when working hours are over. The expense, however, 
is greater. 

For your work you should have three rooms. A waiting-room, 
a fitting-room, and a workroom. The first should be small but 
comfortable, and in good taste. The second may be small, but 
should have a good light and, if possible, a mirror coming nearly 
to the floor. The workroom should be light, warm and large. 
In this room should be kept all working utensils. You should 
have in this room a gas plate or small stove for heating flat-irons. 
A good plan is to tack a large piece of muslin on the wall in this 
room to pin patterns on. This will be found better than to fold 
them. Keep all patterns of regular patrons. If possible have 
a closet off of this room to hang your finished and partly finished 
work in. Have two or three wooden boxes (cigar boxes) to put 
all the little utensils in, such as pencils, tracing- wheels, tracing- 
chalk, etc. Always keep your chart where it will not get broken. 
Never show the gowns you make to any one but the per- 
son for whom they are made. It is not professional. You 
will lose your patrons if you do. When you are ready to open 

245 



246 PRACTICAL SEWING AND DRESSMAKING 

your establishment, send to all your friends your calling-card,, 
upon which you have neatly written the word Dressmaking. 

Keep your sewing-room as orderly as possible. If you need 
help, train a person to each part of the business. Give one 
sleeves, one skirts, one waists, etc. 

You must keep a book for your accounts, and put in it every- 
thing you furnish for your patrons, and the cost of each article. 
Do not purchase any expensive material for a customer without 
having first had them make a deposit with you of at least % 
the cost of the article. Send a bill with every piece of work you 
send out. If this is not paid in one month send another bill. 
Keep on sending them each month until paid. In figuring the 
cost of a gown be sure to get in every item, and be sure not to 
forget to add a profit if you are to furnish the material. Go to 
your dry goods merchant the first thing and get a dressmaker's 
discount. Never give a customer this discount : if you do the 
merchant will take it from you. 



THE END. 



AW, 1 1913 




V 



